Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: emcee on October 09, 2020, 06:12:00 pm
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Almost done with the rehab of our 2004 PC 2550. It was disappointing to note that there wasn't a booster switch on the dash. So I made up a jumper this morning that has male 12 volt connectors on each end. The plan was to connect the jumper between the coach and chassis 12 volt outlets so the solar panel can charge the chassis battery too. The chassis has 2 12 volt outlets so I plugged my voltmeter into one and was going to plug one end of the jumper into the other. But, after plugging my voltmeter in (it read 12.3 volts), for some reason I put the key in and turned the ignition switch to the accessory position. I heard a relay engage and the voltmeter reading immediately started increasing. Voila - a booster switch! Nice that it's not a momentary switch too so I can leave it on accessory and the solar panel will charge the chassis battery along with the coach batteries. 2o2
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Almost done with the rehab of our 2004 PC 2550. It was disappointing to note that there wasn't a booster switch on the dash. So I made up a jumper this morning that has male 12 volt connectors on each end. The plan was to connect the jumper between the coach and chassis 12 volt outlets so the solar panel can charge the chassis battery too. The chassis has 2 12 volt outlets so I plugged my voltmeter into one and was going to plug one end of the jumper into the other. But, after plugging my voltmeter in (it read 12.3 volts), for some reason I put the key in and turned the ignition switch to the accessory position. I heard a relay engage and the voltmeter reading immediately started increasing. Voila - a booster switch! Nice that it's not a momentary switch too so I can leave it on accessory and the solar panel will charge the chassis battery along with the coach batteries. 2o2
I have a 2006 2350, I am going to HOPE we have similar wiring.
By leaving the ignition switch in the 'on' position, you are supplying power to the relay like the key was on. You are may also be powering other things. It may work in a pinch, but I wouldnt leave it in that condition.
In another post, another member reminded people that 'non latching relays' may draw an amp/hour at 12V. Something to consider. You will have that draw 24/7 when the relay is latched.
Do you HAVE the momentary switch to link the batteries? Mine does not.
If you DO, there is a couple mentions here about converting it to a on/off switch. This will allow you do keep the relay on, but still 'wastes' the power the relay uses being on full time. At least you are avoiding the other power losses that may also be on with the key in 'ACC' position.
The 10Ga wire on mine to charge the coach can only handle about 20A of current. (allowing for a 20' length, actual is prolly closer to 15' in mine) so for long term parking, I just put a 3/8 slide connector in the wires on either side of the charging relay. (On mine, its located under the hood, on the drivers side. Under the coolant reservoir, on top of the fender well. Its the thing you hear go 'click' with the key on ACC.) When parking for a while, I can open the hood, and connect the batteries together manually.
BUT.... lets say you like the convenience of NOT having to open the hood... this item is the part. ~$20. (cheer) Will take up to a 70 Amp controller, (your 12V outlet wont like more than 25A going through it, maybe even less). (nod)
https://www.ebay.com/i/362946550317?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=362946550317&targetid=935694487866&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1015157&poi=&campaignid=10877145294&mkgroupid=110621922841&rlsatarget=pla-935694487866&abcId=9300400&merchantid=6326844&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOq1HzE08pYAyR9DAkXIB7KU8HKLDdZhjvzzHulnYGlIzPSCnX-aYlUaAsV-EALw_wcB
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wiMAAOSwhgxeb-wu/s-l640.jpg)
It is for 3 batteries max, you can use it on two. The output from the solar controller goes to ALT terminal, BAT1 to start battery, BAT2 to house batteries.
(Now that I see the picture on the box doesnt match the product... D'oH! RED terminal to controller output, silver terminal to the battery. Doesnt matter which one.)
Now the batteries are safely isolated from each other, and will get all the charge they can handle. And you dont have to do a thing to make sure the solar is charging all the batteries. 2o2