Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: WillLloyd on September 27, 2020, 08:23:06 am
-
This thread is intended to point out other areas that could leak on your PC. I always paid much attention to the roof and used lap seal to touch up all the roof top joints. One day I noticed a touch of moisture on the floor behind the drivers seat and started to investigate. The photo shows the damage. It ruined the laminate, the subfloor, the support lumber in the floor, and has lumber under the slide. More than I want to fix myself at this point. Fortunately, as it appears now, insurance will cover this and I am planning to take it back to the factory for repairs.
The leaks we found were miniscule, drips over a long period of time, most of the water soaked in or dried up and the damage was done before I found it. This occurred on both the driver’s side and the passenger side. Once the walls were open we pointed a leaf blower at the areas and applied soapy water to the outside. Bubbles formed everywhere I show you below.
Once you start looking, there are a lot of these types of joints on the outside of the RV, I have started to clean and recaulk all of them. Takes a lot of time….. I use Lap Seal on the roof and this sealant on the side joints.
-
The horizontal seam behind the cab door has sealant that is painted over. Eventually the paint fails and that must be when ours started to leak. The second photo is the inside of that joint, water ran in here pretty good, through a very small crack in the paint. The vertical seal also showed cracking.
-
There was no factory sealant in the joint behind the gutter spout. Huge soapy bubbles formed here. During a heavy rain I could see where water could overflow the spout and get into the joint. I can also see the spout backing up and spilling water down the side of the slide, we have had water run past the slide before. I plugged the back end of the spout with duct seal putty.
-
One of our lights was slightly loose. Originally I thought this was the source of the leaks until we resealed the lights and the leaks continued. I also sealed the screws securing the awning and the vertical seam.
-
The backside of this seam is hard to see due to the slide and the awning. We had bubbles on both sides forming when we checked for leaks, you couldn’t really see the source so resealed both sides.
-
WillLloyd, thanks for taking the time to document areas you found that either already has or potentially could leak. As you point out the leak damage goes unnoticed until cosmetic or more severe structural damage is already done. Your post certainly highlights the need to regularly inspect, repair, and perform preventative maintenance in insuring our Motorhomes are adequately sealed to prevent moisture intrusion.
Once you take your PC back to the factory a follow up post of what repair was performed to repair the damage and if they found other areas of missing or damaged sealants that could result in leaks would be most welcome. Like you I have used non Silicone ProFlex sealant for joints on vertical sides. It would be helpful to know what the factory uses on the various joints. The common consensus is no sealants will adhere properly to previous surfaces where Silicone was used unless thoroughly removed. It would be helpful to know if the factory uses Silicone.
Sharing information as you have done in your posts here is the main reason I find this Forum so helpful.
-
Hello Will
Thanks for the information and pictures of the areas where you have discovered leaks. I have been chasing leaks on my coach ever since I have got it. Trying to stay one step ahead of damage from water intrusion. However it appears that in the future I will be changing the flooring out, not sure that laminate was a good choice at this point. I was told it was a Pergo product, definitely not going back with it. I was wondering if you are going to change to a different flooring material, or just stay with what you have?
Lance
-
What did you end up using to develop interior pressure to find the leaks? Its probably the only way to find them all. Also what did you find as a good way to remove the old caulking?
I think going over every seam needs to be a yearly maintenance routine. Theres so much flexing going on as we drive down the road there's bound to be issues eventually.
I guess this is the one issue where the Coach house design has everyone beat. I wish they didn't have the other short falls but I guess there's no perfect unit.
-
Some follow-up:
The areas I pointed out are areas we had leaks. You need to keep after every joint on the RV, once you start it feels like there are more joints than in a 750 piece puzzle…
I don’t think any of the sealant is silicon. I say this because every joint I addressed had body paint on it, I don’t think the paint would have adhered to silicone. Some of it appears to be like lap seal, maybe the non-sag type, and some (the white blob) is a hard rubberized type sealant. Either way, they were both painted.
I did not remove the factory sealant where it had body paint on it. I just cleaned it very good, and using masking tape applied new sealant over it. It almost looks better than factory. Our rig is grey so I used black everywhere. They also make a clear sealant which would work good on other colors, and maybe that is what I should have used??
As you get closer to the roof area I think it is all lap seal. I removed the old sealant there, simply using a screwdriver and then cleaned residue with mineral spirits then alcohol.
Our flooring is no longer manufactured, the factory warned they may not have enough to repair (but I think I found some old stock on eBay). They also said they don’t do laminate anymore, wonder why…. Now they use a marine vinyl. The problem is, the floor is the first thing they install, everything else is built on the floor. So to replace, they have to cut it out, install new, and I guess hide cuts using trim. Not really what I want to look at. I think this decision will be made by the availability and the insurance company, I’m torn either way.
At first I tried to pressurize using the dash HVAC, that did not work. I tried briefly to reverse the Fantastic Vent fans but they don’t simply reverse due to the 3-speed switch and frankly I didn’t have the patience to start another project to figure it out. Since we already had the wall panels removed, we used a leaf blower to test the areas we know leaked. This worked good but would not work on areas you don’t have access to (behind walls). So how do you test on a rig that is not disassembled? Not sure, maybe the vent fans will work, or maybe need a high volume fan that can create enough pressure to make bubbles with some kind of door replacement panel? Let me know if you figure it out…..
The real problem is that virtually none of these areas that leaked could be identified without soapy water. And I know that I am not recaulking every one of these joints every year. So what’s wrong with the Coach House?
The issue is there is not really a better choice on the market, believe me, I looked. I still can’t believe this is what the industry has to offer and people don’t stop buying them even though they are all a total POS.
Still not a happy camper.
-
Will, thank you for the info and I admit I wouldn't be a happy camper either. I'm still trying to come up with ways to pressurize the MH to check for leaks. Like you mentioned a leaf blower or fan to wondering if I could do it with a large air compressor.
I had mentioned the coach house. They have the one piece shell which seems pretty trick and up till recently I had only seen them going down the road, never really up close and personal. This past trip I had the opportunity to look over a 27xl that was only a year old. So the one piece shell is nice, that's it as far as I was concerned. There is no macerator and darn near no outside storage of any significance. You want a BBQ along, plan on storing it in a toad or inside your MH. That alone was a deal killer for me. Went inside and it was very nice, seemed well built but no better than PC. The drawer construction etc appeared to be the same quality. So you get a kewl one piece shell design on the exact same Ford Chassis with no real outside storage, no macerator that costs a LOT more money. I simply wasn't impressed.
-
To pressurize the coach would it not work to just run the cab dash vent fan on high? That blows a lot of air.
My guess is that with even just that there will be bubbles at all of the roof vents and windows (older sliding type)
Dougn
-
I have 2 of the higher speed exhaust fans that can be reversed. Maybe with that and the dash but I’m not sure it will be enough
-
Plus, air being forced from the inside may not respond the same as water driven in from the outside.
-
WillLloyd, your posting and pictures scare the stuffing out of me. Playing the try to find the leaks game has been an issues starting when it was new.. With the change in the slide mechanism for 2017, I had the seal design issues on top of the body joints and around the lights. At the time I was deciding which to buy, the "rain room" at Nexus was a plus for them - each unit was put thru high pressure water sprays to check for leaks (though how many might have been in hidden places is certainly a question). I am not up for opening the wall by myself but I guess I better find someone to look at that to make sure those early elusive leaks haven't left that kind of mess hiding in mine. Sorry for your trouble. Like others, I will be watching for updates.
-
Idea
If you want to find leaks one may be able to remove the generator hour counter meter and insert some blowing device in it to test for leaks. This would work for seam areas on driver’s side only. There is insulation in the wall FYI.
First thing I did when I purchased my 2010 2551 was seal all seams. I used dicor on roof. I used 3M–4000 UV Polyether Adhesive Sealant, Black on vertical seams. Other PC owners recommended the 3M 4000. It was easier to apply and holding up well after two years. I pushed the sealant using a chalk gun which gave a nice neat seal without any mess.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--4000-uv-polyether-adhesive-sealant-black-10-oz-cartridge--11657376
Regarding CoachHouse, we looked at used one and the exterior paint didn’t hold up well. It appeared to be bubbling and not sticking well. This may be due to lack of care by owner versus systematic problem. I agree with Joseph about macerator. After having one I wouldn’t want an RV without one. Inside also felt very tight. The twin beds are however longer which is a plus. The slide system is excellent as well. I also heard some internal parts, like faucets and such, are hard to find to replace.
The other RV worth considering is Lazy Daze. Considered those but after seeing a picture where the structure is wood I quickly backed off. It would be too difficult to maintain in Michigan with the wood frame and flat roof unless I had inside storage. My wife thinks they are ugly. But when I was in a 31IB it sure felt like home. Maybe some day.
Ron S
-
Sarzz. Quick question regarding lazy daze. I have yet to see one that doesn’t look like it’s right out of the 70’s. Have you seen a newer model? I’m wondering if they have stepped up to the times
-
Sarzz. Quick question regarding lazy daze. I have yet to see one that doesn’t look like it’s right out of the 70’s. Have you seen a newer model? I’m wondering if they have stepped up to the times
They still look the same, but looking at their features it seems the exterior panels and roof are aluminum, not fiberglass and thus are all full body paint.
-
Sarzz. Quick question regarding lazy daze. I have yet to see one that doesn’t look like it’s right out of the 70’s. Have you seen a newer model? I’m wondering if they have stepped up to the times
No changes to exterior except paint scheme. Still same look. They are building them with new Ford engine. No slides. Hold resale value very well. About two year wait on new order. Owners are just like PC owners; fun, compassionate, and willing to help others.
Ron D
-
We had a 1989 26' Lazy Daze ages ago. It was a great coach and company, and as Sarz points out has a loyal, devoted family of owners. It was solid and quiet on the road, great fit and finish, well balanced. No worries about walking on the roof.
Whenever we see one we like to talk to the owner. They all have the same great regard that we had.
Back then they were coated with aircraft paint, Imron I think. An older one taken care of can still look new.
I'd say they compare well to our PC.
Dougn
-
I guess I don't understand. How would you find these tiny leaks unless they've already done enough damage to prompt you to tear off the paneling to look for them?
I wonder how such a tiny leak could do so much damage in three years unless the vehicle was stored outside or used constantly. My 2008 has had lots of resealing jobs over the years (I just paid $1000 to have the entire roof redone), but it doesn't seem to have any damage -- at least nothing that would prompt me to start removing paneling.
Mine has been stored indoors most of its life and only used for vacations. Maybe that's the difference, but it sure seems dumb that a vehicle meant to be lived in has to be stored indoors in order for the house to last as long as the chassis. Personally, I find it a little outrageous that I have to reseal the roof every five years on a vehicle that lives in a garage 11 months of the year!
-
My 2008 has had lots of resealing jobs over the years (I just paid $1000 to have the entire roof redone),
Mine has been stored indoors most of its life and only used for vacations.
Personally, I find it a little outrageous that I have to reseal the roof every five years on a vehicle that lives in a garage 11 months of the year!
ME too! Mine is a 2006, stored outside all its life IMO, and the original roof is uncoated. Where yours is two years newer, and has " lots of resealing jobs". What prompted the resealing jobs? Leaks, or preventative maintenance?
-
BlueBlaze's Comment - My 2008 has had lots of resealing jobs over the years (I just paid $1000 to have the entire roof redone). Mine has been stored indoors most of its life and only used for vacations. Personally, I find it a little outrageous that I have to reseal the roof every five years on a vehicle that lives in a garage 11 months of the year!
----------------------------------
Wow, that is unfortunate. I surely understand your feelings. I wonder why your rig chronically leaks. Nobody else writes anything that resembled your comments. You did buy the rig at 8 years of age. I wonder if a previous owner had an event that started the chronic leaking.
That is not my experience. Our 2007 2350 is stored indoors for 11 months per year and as far as I know, it remains fully sealed. Our garage includes heat during the winter, and does not get hot during the summer. The only time our rig sees freezing temperatures has been just a few times at high altitude camping during the summer. We avoid hot summers, camping primarily in spring and fall when the parks are less crowded. Maybe our timely usage is influential.
-
What prompted the resealing jobs? Leaks, or preventative maintenance?
Both. All of the seams around the front cap on mine have clear caulk spots that previous owners must have done at different times for leaks. On my last trip, I developed a leak during a heavy downburst, that had me driving with a towel on my left leg until the rain let up. When I took it in this year to the RV mechanic to get that stupid generator fixed (again!) , I had them inspect it, and the guy said it was leaking around one of the lights. He then showed me cracking sealant around all the stuff on the roof and suggested I do a reseal job on it while he had it in the shop. He said it ought to be done every five years.
-
On my last trip, I developed a leak during a heavy downburst, that had me driving with a towel on my left leg until the rain let up.
A thought just came to me. Check this.
Stand outside your PC and try to lift the B+ cap at each front corner to make sure it has not come loose.
I recall many years ago, a few PC's had their B+ caps come loose from broken screws that hold it down, the base of the cap to the van roof. A rough ride would be influential, hence the smaller models with light weight fronts being more prone.
-
BlueBlaze's Comment - My 2008 has had lots of resealing jobs over the years (I just paid $1000 to have the entire roof redone). Mine has been stored indoors most of its life and only used for vacations. Personally, I find it a little outrageous that I have to reseal the roof every five years on a vehicle that lives in a garage 11 months of the year!
----------------------------------
Wow, that is unfortunate. I surely understand your feelings. I wonder why your rig chronically leaks. Nobody else writes anything that resembled your comments.
That is not my experience. Our 2007 2350 is stored indoors for 11 months per year and as far as I know, it remains fully sealed. Our garage includes heat during the winter, and does not get hot during the summer. The only time our rig sees freezing temperatures has been just a few times at high altitude camping during the summer. We avoid hot summers, camping primarily in spring and fall when the parks are less crowded. Maybe our timely usage is influential.
I wouldn't say it "chronically" leaks. I've only had the one, and it was probably caused by my breaking the lights on the front cap when I forgot to prop the garage door open enough to clear the roof. But I agreed with the mechanic that the roof sealant needed to be replaced. He's the one who said it needs to be replaced ever five years. So you've never needed it on your 2007?
I've always thought that the all-over paint like yours might have protected the aging sealant that caused previous owners to patch the seams on mine. But not after reading the O.P.'s experience with his 2017.
My gripe is that I don't understand why any RV owner would ever had to worry about leaks -- especially on a $100K vehicle that spends its life in a garage. People have been building RV's for 50 years. Seems like someone would have figured out how to make them leakproof by now.
-
But I agreed with the mechanic that the roof sealant needed to be replaced. He's the one who said it needs to be replaced ever five years. So you've never needed it on your 2007?
Hmmm, my sealant looks fine. Around my main entry door, I see the rough ride cracked the paintwork around the door frame, the caulk lightly stressed but does not appear to be compromised. I see similar stress on other caulk, again, nothing compromising that I am aware of.
In our early years, I had issues with the door threshold and lower mounting screws breaking. CLICK HERE (http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,77.0.html) to read about it. I replaced them with larger stronger machine screws which has held the entry door frame reliably since. I assume that the early failure of those mounting screws caused the condition with paint and caulk.
-
I recall many years ago, a few PC's had their B+ caps come loose from broken screws that hold it down, the base of the cap to the van roof. A rough ride would be influential, hence the smaller models with light weight fronts being more prone.
I was aware of that problem. Mine PC doesn't have it, I've checked. But I guess its possible that it did once and was fixed. Either way, it gets back to my point -- why would something like that ever happen in the first place? I bought a PC because of the reputation for quality -- and it still has stupid problems like the B-cap coming loose. We have friends who just bought a new Thor class A, and its been back to the dealer for serious repairs more in the last year than second-hand Yugo. It leaked on their first outing!
It's no wonder a $90,000 2008 2350 is only worth $13,000 in 2020. That's probably about what my 2008 Ford Ranger is worth today! Of course, the Ranger's roof has never been in danger of coming off, it doesn't have to be stored indoors to keep the graphics from cracking, and doesn't have to be resealed every five years to prevent leaks! It's amazing when you think about it. Somehow, Ford was able to create such an amazing marvel of leakproof reliability for only $28K in 2008!
-
As you know, when it comes to every motor home manufacture, a few bad apples are made. I'm not saying you have a bad apple. Maybe a good one with a worm in it. Some manufactures make a higher percentage of bad apples than others. From all my years here on this forum since it's inception in January 2009, I've concluded Phoenix has a much better track record than most other brands.
There is another measuring stick....how a rig is holding up with age. You and Volkemon are on the lower end of that scale. In general, having a slide out is a contributing factor, though not in your case.
I hope you are able to address your leaks without repeated treatments.
-
Blue, it’s industry wide. Ie, If you recall there’s a bunch of us complaining about the Upholstery peeling. I thought it was just a few years that had the issue. Now on IRV2 I see a thread regarding Newmar models 2 years old with the issue. One spent 6 grand to reupholster his seats and couch. Yet I have vehicles 15 years old that the seats look like new. How many corners do these companies cut? And I have never known Newmar to be considered anything but top tier.
-
As you know, when it comes to every motor home manufacture, a few bad apples are made. I'm not saying you have a bad apple. Maybe a good one with a worm in it. Some manufactures make a higher percentage of bad apples than others. From all my years here on this forum since it's inception in January 2009, I've concluded Phoenix has a much better track record than most other brands.
There is another measuring stick....how a rig is holding up with age. You and Volkemon are on the lower end of that scale. In general, having a slide out is a contributing factor, though not in your case.
roflol OK! BINGO! Slides condemned by Ron, that was the last square I needed for this sheet of Forum Bingo! roflol
My 'fatal water issue' was caused by a bad windshield replacement. The rear corner damage from a careless operator. The bath skylight leak damage caused by ME not knowing mastic tape doesn't seal to RV self leveling sealant. (WH) I hardly hold PC responsible for any faults there. And my slide doesnt leak BTW.... (nod)
I think its a miracle that ANYONE can make a house that rolls down the road and stays together, that people can afford. We have been SPOILED by auto/light truck quality, how long ago was it that 100K miles from most cars was an occasion to throw a party? heartshower Now if a Hyundai has problems at 170K people complain.
I know all the repairs and improvements I have made on my rig were done in a manner that would not have been feasible for a manufacturer. They would go broke. Hopefully I am blessed with the mental and physical ability to do it for some time.
When our barn goes up a roof removal will take place on the camper, and I suppose many things will be learned then. But until then, I am VERY happy we are still in the 2006. 'Apples to Apples' with other Class C's of that era, I feel PC made one of the best available. I hope that continues today.
-
Hi Joseph,
Regarding the issue with "vinyl surface disintegration". My understanding has always been that the vinyl was made in the USA until after the great recession that started in 2008. The manufactures of the vinyl material either outsourced the vinyl in finished rolls direct from China, or in the ingredients from China when making the vinyl in the USA. In either case, to stay in business the vinyl suppliers sourced China to survive. That is why companies like Phoenix are now going with real leather, solely to avoid future flaking vinyl.
-
There is another measuring stick....how a rig is holding up with age. You and Volkemon are on the lower end of that scale. In general, having a slide out is a contributing factor, though not in your case.
-------------
roflol OK! BINGO! Slides condemned by Ron, that was the last square I needed for this sheet of Forum Bingo! roflol
.......And my slide doesn't leak BTW.... (nod)
Hi Volkemon,
I had recalled your PC had water damage around your slide out, but am obviously mistaken. I must have you confused with someone else. I am sorry for the mis-information to the community.
And yes, I am a "Slide-A-Phobic" guy.
-
Ron, and it’s still going on with top brands. As far as leather goes I won’t hold my breath there as well. All leather is not equal. My ford leather is terrible, the leather in my Yukon and Escalade were nothing to talk about as well. The leather in my Lexus , Acura and BMW were outstanding. So only time will tell with what they are using. I won’t hold my breath with this industry.
-
Ron, and it’s still going on with top brands. As far as leather goes I won’t hold my breath there as well. All leather is not equal. My ford leather is terrible, the leather in my Yukon and Escalade were nothing to talk about as well. The leather in my Lexus , Acura and BMW were outstanding. So only time will tell with what they are using. I won’t hold my breath with this industry.
Yes, I understand.
It is unfortunate the industry lost basic vinyl durability. Maybe some "Green New Deal" thinking, environmental concerns messed up vinyl coverings. It leaves us to wonder "What Else" has gone the way of garbage production.
At home, my 50 gallon water heater (with pilot light) is the original one installed when the house was built back in 1988. I dread the day I have to replace it. When it's time, maybe I should include quick connect fittings. :'( So many products have succumbed to the same "made cheaper" demise.
-
Ron, most but by far not all of the blame is in China with quality issues. I’ve been there more times than I can count and in their factories. If your the US customer as an example and you want a 100,000 doohickeys built. They will ask you what quality you want. You want built top quality it’s this price per unit, you want middle quality it’s this price or low quality it’s this price. In the end the buyer chooses.
They have some state of the art factories and those that are far from it. And everything you decide will need to be tested to see to it that’s what your getting. If your the buyer you know that your driver speaks english even though he indicates otherwise and your room is bugged. It’s just the way of the land in a communist country.
We sold our countries soul for cheap goods. Now it’s coming back to bite us.
-
There is another measuring stick....how a rig is holding up with age. You and Volkemon are on the lower end of that scale. In general, having a slide out is a contributing factor, though not in your case.
-------------
roflol OK! BINGO! Slides condemned by Ron, that was the last square I needed for this sheet of Forum Bingo! roflol
.......And my slide doesn't leak BTW.... (nod)
Hi Volkemon,
I had recalled your PC had water damage around your slide out, but am obviously mistaken. I must have you confused with someone else. I am sorry for the mis-information to the community.
And yes, I am a "Slide-A-Phobic" guy.
(cheer) (cheer) (cheer) NO worries. For all you have contributed to the PC community you are allowed much more than that in my book. (cheer) (cheer) (cheer) :)(: I hope we laugh together. :)(:
-
There is another measuring stick....how a rig is holding up with age. You and Volkemon are on the lower end of that scale. In general, having a slide out is a contributing factor, though not in your case.
-------------
roflol OK! BINGO! Slides condemned by Ron, that was the last square I needed for this sheet of Forum Bingo! roflol
.......And my slide doesn't leak BTW.... (nod)
Hi Volkemon,
I had recalled your PC had water damage around your slide out, but am obviously mistaken. I must have you confused with someone else. I am sorry for the mis-information to the community.
And yes, I am a "Slide-A-Phobic" guy.
(cheer) (cheer) (cheer) NO worries. For all you have contributed to the PC community you are allowed much more than that in my book. (cheer) (cheer) (cheer) :)(: I hope we laugh together. :)(:
And :)(: to you my internet friend.
-
Hello
I was wondering if anyone one else had issues with leaking windows? The window over my sink would leak occasionally when the rain was really whipping around. Yesterday I finally got around to figuring out why it leaked. I pulled the inner trim ring off and hosed it down to see if the leak was coming from the mounting gasket but it wasn't. Further investigation revealed that the opening section of the window was leaking by at the edges and running water into the camper. I drilled out the rivets holding the actuator and removed the opening section of the window. I found that where the window was glued into the mounting lip was not sealed up at the ends. This allowed water to enter past the foam window gasket and run into the inner aluminum lip between the window and screen. It then leaked out at the actuator and ran onto the counter. Sealed up the ends and no more leaks. One more problem solved...
-
I guess there is some advantage to living where it (almost) never rains....
-
Found those same vertical joint leaks in my 2004 2550. Looks like the design didn't change. The previous owner finally noticed the leaks when the fabric on the wall panels covering the transition piece showed water stains. Lots of severe damage to floor. It's a problem because there's no way to inspect the joint with the wall panels in place. It's also a problem since the caulk under the exterior vertical trim is the only thing stopping the water from leaking in. I caulked both inside and outside while I had the pieces removed. Linked photos show the damaged wall panels and the vertical joint with the caulk removed.
https://imgur.com/a/gG21tKj
-
See more photos here: https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3628.45
This is another area that needs attention if yours is built like mine. When I'm done with the repairs, it will be for sale and will be the tightest PC on the market....
-
Will, I think your making the smartest move by selling. Once the issues cause an abscess to the owner no matter how great it is after repairs it’s always a sore spot. I’ve more than once hung on to something longer than I should have and all it did was cause me stress. I totally understand your feeling of wanting it gone.
I hope that what ever you replace it with gives you years of good service.
-
Thanks. Problem is, everything will be fixed, and fixed right, by the time its for sale..... Unfortunately, the big issues cause all the little expected issues to be a problem too.
And I'm not sure there is anything better out there. We will be in Florida in November and plan to go look at a Couch House. Not sure they are any better.
-
Here are some photos of the interior repairs. It is now better than new, really. Ill post leak prevention solutions when I get pics.
We replaced the rotted wood with foam
-
New subfloor and you can see steel plate installed to support generator. It sagged since new, mostly because there was little supporting it.....
-
Install flooring and clean up and reinstall the electrical. Fortunately the factory had some matching laminate, otherwise it would have required a complete new floor in the coach.
-
And wallboard reinstall and new corner to hide the electrical. The top is removable to allow leak checks.....and there will be NONE.
-
And wallboard reinstall and new corner to hide the electrical. The top is removable to allow leak checks.....and there will be NONE.
But you're going to check anyway! :)(:
-
Probably. A friend of mine works at Sheehy Ford in Warrenton, there was a 2910 very similar to ours there the other day.