Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bangorbob on August 03, 2020, 12:27:31 pm
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Believe it or not my old Executive HTS 1000 still works. I just installed a new TV and would like to use the system, but I don't have a remote. I know I can buy one online for about $50. A lot for such an old system. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had a remote for the system?
Yes, I know I could buy a new system, but I'm frugal (cheap)..
Thanks, Bob
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Yes, I know I could buy a new system, but I'm frugal (cheap)..
Thanks, Bob
Bob,
You and I have that in common. With all stuff bought and maintained, we try to get our money's worth.
Our Executive continues to work like new. I have looked into upgrading to an equivalent blu-ray system, but never found the "Ideal" replacement, let alone at a price I could justify. I only wish our main TV and Executive were more user friendly. That would be a good reason for an upgrade.
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That's part of my problem is taking care of stuff til way after obsolescence then trying to integrate with new. I finally got the new Tv and trim installed and connected to the Executive via analog output. That's the only way I could figure out how to make it work. The TV speakers are gross and with loss of hearing, ya they work real good. Still would like to have a remote.
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That's part of my problem is taking care of stuff til way after obsolescence then trying to integrate with new. I finally got the new Tv and trim installed and connected to the Executive via analog output. That's the only way I could figure out how to make it work. The TV speakers are gross and with loss of hearing, ya they work real good. Still would like to have a remote.
I still have the old flatscreen (original?) from our rig, and they had used up a low level adapter right from the speaker outputs to drive the surround. So even new, mine was 'rigged' to work. (I really have to throw that away... I just HATE to 'junk' a working TV.. sigh.. should admit I am old and toss it.. (exactly) ) (Our head unit was toast, one channel was blown. It got tossed with the remote. Sorry.)
The new TV speakers sound as good as the installed surround speakers in my rig, so I didnt bother hooking them up. (link - https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3559.msg30550#msg30550 )
On mine, they hid the subwoofer UNDER THE BED inside the outside compartment. roflol Worthless. All two watts wasted. (nod)
@Bob - a plan for a working remote... (cheer)
Get one of these, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/Learning-Remote-Control-RM-L7-Universal/dp/B00LGBMF3W?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41NGMP4ZWhL._AC_.jpg)
Get an address from Ron D, and send it sent to his house with a postage paid label inside so it is an easy return. It is somewhat amazing that he has a working unit.
It is VERY easy to teach the remote. We use similar ones when residents want a remote for their new 80" TV, but dont want the new ones with 12.4 million buttons. :lol Gives a simple on/off, volume and channel at the least, and DVD functions can be added also.
Then when Ron ships it back, have a small but personal thank you ready to send. heartshower tymote heartshower
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My old Executive system still works. The Westinghouse TV the was in the unit still work to a point. I will toss it this trash day (Thursday). It also has the speakers tapped into for external speakers. Anyway, I guess you are saying that the $10 remote will work with Ron's and my working executive system? I just don't want to have to get up out of bed and manually turn the amp off (the lights bother me).
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Anyway, I guess you are saying that the $10 remote will work with Ron's and my working executive system? I just don't want to have to get up out of bed and manually turn the amp off (the lights bother me).
I believe so, the 'universal' remote merely records or 'Learns' the pulses givin out from the original remote. So if one has a working IR LED remote it just copies the commands.
Assuming Ron does, and if anyone else is curious about the remote working, use your cell phone camera. Activate the phone cam, and get the end of the remote in view. The business end, where the LED is. Maybe covered with a black lens, usually at the top.
Now press a button on the remote, the cellphone camera will see it as a purple dot blinking. Now you know the remote is signalling, and can look elsewhere for whats wrong.
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I would think you could program the new remote without an original remote, but hey, I am here if you need help.
We appreciate the sound system in our PC, including the subwoofer which is why I am not in a hurry to replace our original Executive head unit. I will admit it's not a top-end system, but is adequate for our small living room. We never considered it a bad investment.
Special ordering our PC without a slideout, having a dinette instead of a couch, I had the factory install the subwoofer inside the front dinette bench, as far from our rear corner bed as possible. It is a much better location for obvious reasons.
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I would think you could program the new remote without an original remote, but hey, I am here if you need help.
If one is making a microprocessor remote (Arduino, etc) there are 'tables' that can be used to program the signals of popular devices. Little out of the scope for this need. (nod)
You are probably aware of the remotes (supplied usually from your cable provider) that one can inset a code, they have the common codes built in also. Executive was not found as a Model or Brand in any tables I could look up, so there wasnt enough demand for them to 'Make the list'.
There is a chance that you could locate another remote code list that happened to use enough of the same codes that on/off works at least. I wouldnt put money on it, but there is a chance. Happy Hunting.
SOME Android phones have an IR emitter, and can be programmed to work as remotes. Again, not finding the codes for Executive brand/model...
I did briefly look into another system when I discovered ours was broken, but the lack of something else that fit was a big setback. Not to mention that the 'Surround sound' system speakers installed were probably mediocre for the day in 2006, and today would be considered laughable. I have a small bluetooth speaker that hooks to my phone that has better sound. Honestly, the TV I installed has better sound than the installed speakers. They are glorified hole plugs for now.
If you DO spend a lot of time watching tv/movies in the camper, this $100 subwoofer, placed anywhere near the seating area, will return MUCH depth of sound.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-SS8P-Under-Seat-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B079PRCP9W/ref=asc_df_B079PRCP9W
11.4" x 8.3" x 2.8" Inches with an 8" driver.... THATS some good use of space.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ZNAavtiDL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Too big? These will rock your seat, and bother neighbors less. 2o2 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bst-1-high-power-pro-tactile-bass-shaker-50-watts--295-244
Dimensions:
5.75" diameter x 2.5" high
Mounting holes 5.5625" center to center
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mz3U1byeL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Sorta wandered off remotes... but hey...we get topic drift here. roflol
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I agree with Volkemon and buy a universal remote. I have done that for off-brand TV's and such where they are not listed. You simply follow the process for the unlisted. I have never run into a situation that was a total bust.
Concerning our sound system with subwoofer, you are right Volkemon. We are mindful of the neighbors, especially during the evening. It's great to have when relaxing on a rained-out day.
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I agree with Volkemon and buy a universal remote. I have done that for off-brand TV's and such where they are not listed. You simply follow the process for the unlisted. I have never run into a situation that was a total bust.
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""There is a chance that you could locate another remote code list that happened to use enough of the same codes that on/off works at least. I wouldnt put money on it, but there is a chance. Happy Hunting."" I meant to say there were probably 2 chances...FAT and SLIM. roflol
The cheapest most effective is the programmable remote. The universal was my DISTANT second... but ..
I did a bit more searching...is this head unit an Executive model surround from RCA?
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Remote-Control-EXECUTIVE-HTS1000/dp/B009H5MWJG/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B009H5LH42 (WH) There were several models available. All are 5 times the cost of the universal... but offer EVERY feature! And often the remote is the only way into some menus.
But should the universal remote not pan out, and the replacements not be correct, maybe a simple 110V remote adapter and shut the whole thing down when finished?
https://www.amazon.com/WESTEK-Outdoor-Wireless-Receiver-RFK326LC/dp/B004ZUKG6Y/ref=asc_df_B004ZUKG6Y
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Wow, there sure are a pile more buttons, especially with the slide-down feature, on that remote sold on Amazon.
Here is a picture of our Executive head unit with the original remote. I might be able to locate another identical remote on the internet. I have a question for an eBay seller who once had one for sale. Maybe he still has it and just stopped posting it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50193888216_5c86ae06fd_z.jpg)
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Thanks for the replies. Ron, I saw the remote on the internet. I'm sure 90% of the buttons are there for a reason, but I found out the older I get I want things to be simpler. It's the Kiss method. I appreciate your assistance in locating an original remote. I'm just to lazy to get up from my bed and manually turn off the machine, plus with a remote I can turn up/down volume when the very quite (ha ha) A/C turns on.
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If it becomes to much a PITA I will just install a small soundbar. Due to lose of hearing at some levels I have a hard time understanding the words on TV/Movies, so the old surround sound at least gives some ability to hear most without the constant use of hearing aids. Thanks for the replies.
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Got a question concerning the stereo plug. Where is your DVD/stereo system plugged in? I have a plug in the front right cabinet but the cord is really short. Someone had used an extension cord-which I don't use on a long term basis.
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I think mine uses an extension cord as well. It is white, plugged into the power strip (I added) to the left as shown. I think the extension cord is installed during the installation of the cabinet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3414/3507692759_7c2357c304_z.jpg)
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Ron, Thanks. So this extension cord is from the factory. Never seen that before. BTW, how did you mount your power strip?
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Yes Bob, that cord is a "factory" thing. Like you, I thought it was odd. But it works.
I drilled holes in the power strip and screwed it to the shelf I made. If you look close at the picture, you can see the nylon locking nuts at the bottom.
I got that power strip from my employer a long time ago, tossed out because the cord was damaged. I rotated the receptacles into various orientations to accommodate various chargers. Power strip receptacles are typically oriented in such a way that a charger often covers up an adjacent receptacle, and the wire coming off also interferes. We like the charger and cord to hang down, out of the way of other chargers. It works quite well.
I recall some time later, I stumbled on a power strip with receptacles that rotate. I suggest some internet shopping.
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Ron, Thanks for the info. I saw the 2 silver "things" on the bottom of the strip but didn't know what they were. I'll have to look at my power strips to see what the internals look like. You are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks.
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I'll have to look at my power strips to see what the internals look like.
Yes, you surely have to watch for internal wiring when drilling holes for the long machine screws to pass through the power strip.
When mounting the power strip to your own shelf or other feature, be sure to use nylon lock nuts because you won't be able to tighten it up enough without distorting the power strip. It would start to collapse, then come loose anyway. A proper size bushing through the core of the power strip would also work, but it is much easier to use a nylon lock nut.
You are very welcome!
Ron
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That power strip with rotating sockets is a fantastic idea,
Don
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Doing a very quick search, I found a rotating power strip at Bed Bath and Beyond. It includes two USB charging ports. CLICK HERE (https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/360-electrical-reg-powercurve-3-4-surge-protector-with-5-rotating-outlets-and-2-usb-ports-in-white/5039638?skuId=64102771&enginename=google&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_outdoorutility_local&product_id=64102771&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&adpos=&creative=232742511250&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&utm_campaignid=71700000037121869&utm_adgroupid=58700004142046804&targetid=92700034063839916&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ej5BRBhEiwAfHyh1FewzkazKKZssfHPWPOreLi8I6tAnfSpII_uKMfbu5baTLbOopolShoCcxAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) to see it.
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Doing a very quick search, I found a rotating power strip at Bed Bath and Beyond. It includes two USB charging ports. CLICK HERE (https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/360-electrical-reg-powercurve-3-4-surge-protector-with-5-rotating-outlets-and-2-usb-ports-in-white/5039638?skuId=64102771&enginename=google&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_outdoorutility_local&product_id=64102771&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&adpos=&creative=232742511250&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&utm_campaignid=71700000037121869&utm_adgroupid=58700004142046804&targetid=92700034063839916&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ej5BRBhEiwAfHyh1FewzkazKKZssfHPWPOreLi8I6tAnfSpII_uKMfbu5baTLbOopolShoCcxAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) to see it.
Same item on Amazon for $24.99...yes, I bought one.