Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: catsaplenty on October 21, 2018, 05:23:20 pm
-
I have been going in and out of the RV all day just fine. I went to take the dog for a walk and shut the door. As soon as I did I realized I was carrying something I didn't need and reached up to open the door. The door no longer opened. The latch pulls out as it should but doesn't release the door. I parked the dog in the car, and went in thru the driver door to see if I could open it from inside - nope. I got out the screw driver and took off the inside face plate hoping something would jump out at me (sort of like opening the hood and staring at the engine when you haven't a clue). trying to work the latch from there didn't help either.
Have any of you had this happen and do you have any good news for me about what I might be able to do?
And yes - when they open tomorrow I can call in to PC. Just hoping there is someone with a pearl of wisdom about this so I can get me and the dog in and out the normal way. Thanks.
-
p.s. I did try locking and unlocking both locks - both with the key and from the inside just in case they somehow popped into place. No change.
Also tried quietly cussing to myself but that didn't seem to move anything either.
That pretty much uses up my best talents
-
Hi Cats--
So sorry I can't offer you a short cut past that door. All I can offer is my own experience, which was the same situation a year or two ago. Door locked me out and there was no way to bypass it so me and doggy went in and out via the cab doors. I got the problem fixed when passing through Elkhart and they did it at no charge. Seems there was a batch of those door locks that were a problem. I know you are not near nor heading in Elkhart's direction, but hopefully Phoenix will step up to the plate for you and reimburse your expenses to get a replacement wherever you are. Good luck and take care!
-
Thanks Carol. It's always something interesting isn't it!
-
i had the same problem this summer. there is access to the latch inside the inner plate. keep looking it is there. the new assembly goes in easily. good luck. i know folks that had the same problem in a class A.no other way out. class C advantage.
-
Hi catsaplenty,
No guaranteed success with this suggestion, but hold the latch and give the door a real good shoulder bump from the outside, and then from the inside.
If you get the door open, there may be a simple do-it-yourself solution. The adjustment might be with the metal plate in the door jamb that the latches go into to. I think on mine there are spacer washers to remove to increase the gap. Doing so should allow for a consistent release.
If you look close at this picture of mine, you can see the catch is not flush to the door frame. There is a gap, assumed a washer is behind the plate. Remove your washers and you might be fine. That will be much easier than setting up an appointment and running to a place who will likely try that first.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5813/30732891005_8fd7937ded_z.jpg)
-
Thanks Dave, I will look again. I found the piece yesterday that the latch engages but manipulating that didn't do anything. I was afraid to try removing the whole thing for fear I couldn't get it back in.
Ron, I know what you mean with that assembly. I have had the plate wiggle loose before - usually the door won't latch right and then I know to tighten it. At this point I haven't figured out how to get to it without getting the door open, but I will keep working at it.
Thanks
-
Thanks Dave, I will look again. I found the piece yesterday that the latch engages but manipulating that didn't do anything. I was afraid to try removing the whole thing for fear I couldn't get it back in.
Ron, I know what you mean with that assembly. I have had the plate wiggle loose before - usually the door won't latch right and then I know to tighten it. At this point I haven't figured out how to get to it without getting the door open, but I will keep working at it.
Thanks
If you are up to trying this, I would be tempted to wedge in a wide & stiff putty knife between the door and the frame and try to spread the gap a tad bit. But be sure not to deform anything. The wider the putty knife, the better you will distribute the forces that deform.
-
We had a similar problem a couple of years ago. Here is a link to our original post:
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=2795.msg22926#msg22926
It has been 18 months since we installed it and it has worked great with constant use for 4 months in the winter and we still have not needed to change batteries. We really like the convenience of no keys.
Let me know if you need any additional information.
Barry
-
We've had it happen twice. The latch bolt itself breaks (the part that holds the door closed).
The only temporary fix is to remove the inside plate, push the outside plate out, the latch bolt will fall out. Then ignore the bolt (leave detached), reassemble the the two plates and use the deadlock to open/close the door.
The factory can ship you a whole new assembly ($95 +) as you can't get individual pieces.
The reason for the problem is the latch bolts are just pot metal and easily break.
-
Thanks Dave, I will look again. I found the piece yesterday that the latch engages but manipulating that didn't do anything. I was afraid to try removing the whole thing for fear I couldn't get it back in.
Ron, I know what you mean with that assembly. I have had the plate wiggle loose before - usually the door won't latch right and then I know to tighten it. At this point I haven't figured out how to get to it without getting the door open, but I will keep working at it.
Thanks
If you are up to trying this, I would be tempted to wedge in a wide & stiff putty knife between the door and the frame and try to spread the gap a tad bit. But be sure not to deform anything. The wider the putty knife, the better you will distribute the forces that deform.
There's no need to wedge anything... Remove the 3 screws holding the latch mechanism in place, pull inside plate, push outside plate off from the inside.
The broken latch bolt will fall out (or you can pull it out). Then reassemble the mechanism leaving the broken latch out. And use the deadbolt to lock closed. You can then open and close by using the deadbolt.
-
Thanks to all. I will try to knock out the handle. I am headed for Nov in Myrtle Beach and believe there are some good shops there who can help get the recommended keyless model installed right for me. Hope to have the check valve done there as well as the since-purchase leaks that PC has failed to fix with multiple tries.
-
Thanks Dave, I will look again. I found the piece yesterday that the latch engages but manipulating that didn't do anything. I was afraid to try removing the whole thing for fear I couldn't get it back in.
Ron, I know what you mean with that assembly. I have had the plate wiggle loose before - usually the door won't latch right and then I know to tighten it. At this point I haven't figured out how to get to it without getting the door open, but I will keep working at it.
Thanks
If you are up to trying this, I would be tempted to wedge in a wide & stiff putty knife between the door and the frame and try to spread the gap a tad bit. But be sure not to deform anything. The wider the putty knife, the better you will distribute the forces that deform.
There's no need to wedge anything... Remove the 3 screws holding the latch mechanism in place, pull inside plate, push outside plate off from the inside.
The broken latch bolt will fall out (or you can pull it out). Then reassemble the mechanism leaving the broken latch out. And use the deadbolt to lock closed. You can then open and close by using the deadbolt.
What you suggest makes perfect sense, assuming something broke. I had assumed something is out of slight alignment or the latch plate loosened up. Doing as you suggest should determine if something broke, maybe even open the door.....good advise!
-
Dave is having a replacement sent to me at no charge - much more than I expected. In theory I can change out the unit myself since no filing and adjusting would be necessary. Learning more as I go. And credit when due to PC.
-
Happy to hear a positive resolution. I purchased a used 2012 model 3100 in 2015. The PC factory has treated me like a member of the family. Always responsive and caring to my needs and wants. A good company!
-
Having something of difficult door latch, I took it apart and found several pounds of accumulated dust, dirt, and sand. Cleaned and oiled the parts. put it all back together, and it's worked fine since then. YMMV.
-
Both the lock cylinders on ours were shot, so we got a new latch.
https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-013-531-Electric-Motor/dp/B00JXU0CFQ
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91bm9kkiSLL._AC_UL115_.jpg)
The part fits, but after trimming the door opening. The original striker plate also had to be re-used, as the new one was a bit bigger and kept the door from closing all the way.
NOT a 'direct bolt in' installation. Trimming needed. But well worth it. Only one lock knob inside now. The other had two, that rotated different directions. PITA to use.
Best part is easy-locking. Press the bottom two buttons, and locked. no code needed to lock.
And MORE KEYS! Yaaay! roflol But now we dont need to carry keys.. just remember a code. :beg Oh no...
The directions seem to be written by someone who did not have English as a first language. :lol I took a bunch of pictures, and will try to do a Ron D quality writeup of the task.
EDIT - HEY! Its one year owning our coach today. :)(: THANK YOU to all that have helped out.
-
My door latch just broke today.
I read some posts that indicate that this trimark latch has a pot metal plunger that breaks. Mine was stuck in place so the door would not open.
I was able to push it in with a screw driver from the inside and when door opened out poed the latch & sprint.
It's new years day (Happy New Year), so I will call Carol tomorrow.
From what I read the old Trimark Latch was a 060-0650 which is still for sale on Amazon with same pot metal plunger.
I think the new design is the 060-1650 has been upgraded with a steel plunger for better security and long life, maybe someone can confirm.
I see Amazon sells this https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-Collection-T507-Entrance/dp/B00EOTE8BA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 for $104 including shipping. or $92.75 on ebay. Neither say who makes it.
-
Hi keelhauler,
You may find the latch sold from Phoenix will be cheaper. Wherever you buy from, if you can, specify your preference for a common key or different key. Our PC had different keys for the dead bolt and latch. I later had one re-key'd to match the other.
Happy New Year!
-
John,
When our door latch broke we also read that the new trimark latch plunger was new and improved. We had spoken to Carol and we were going to buy it from Phoenix. She explained for our 2012 model it was not quite a direct replacement and we would have to do a little filing to install it.
So we decided to go with the Bauer keyless entry latch. Very pleased with our choice and it is going on two years. Still using the original batteries.
Barry and Sue
PS - we are in Stuart at the COE Campground if you are in the area stop by.
-
Barry and Sue
PS - we are in Stuart at the COE Campground if you are in the area stop by.
Well hey! We are just a quick trip north of you. How long are you there? If you are live music fans, check out Terra Fermata. Nice little outdoor beer garden.
link - https://www.terrafermata.com/
RE: Doorlatch - Been a couple months, and could not be happier with our power door latch. I would recommend it highly. Using the code to get ion and out has been MOST convenient, and the 'two button' lock feature has us locking the door much more often, even at home now.
Link to latch we used - https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-013-531-Electric-Motor/dp/B00JXU0CFQ
-
We are here til 1/14. There is also another PC here as well. Come on south!!!
-
PS - we are in Stuart at the COE Campground if you are in the area stop by.
We won't be that far south until 2/7 at W.P. Franklin. Right now for next two weeks we will be at Lithia Springs near Tampa.
Phoenix was closed so I ordered the new door latch off E-bay from RV & Auto Parts in CA.
I got the latch yesterday. 2 days from CA & free shipping, $92.75. It is much heavier than original.
The problem with installing it is that the dead bolt mechanism takes more room on the opposite side of the latch. You need to put a slot in the 1" aluminum channel, 1/4" x 1" to accommodate it. A Dremel tool could do it easily. I used a drill and a file. Took a while, then a fellow camper saw me and came over with his Dremel and helped me finish the job. It went together OK. I did not have to change the slotted plate on door jamb.
-
Does the Bauer key-less lock install without modification to the door opening? I tried the RVlock.com key-lees lock and it would require grinding down about 1/8-3/16 of steel from the bottom of the door opening.
Thanks