Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Volkemon on January 14, 2018, 02:28:21 am
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New day, new project... roflol
The carpeting on the camper has always been an issue with Mrs V. Not to her standards. And smells.
so... new flooring was in order.
pic 9073 shows the <formerly> existing floor carpeting.
pic 9074 shows why my slide was leaking... rear roller was 'low' due to bending.
pic 9077 shows the cause... carpet had deformed and was impeding roller travel.
pic 9078 shows another angle. Pics dont do it justice, was an impressive mound. Reason #2 carpet must go. :/
pic 9079 - carpet removal. Lots of randomly placed staples. No seat, as it was removed prior to our ownership.
pic 9083 - First bump. >( Inboard LP tank and Generator mounting bolts.
pic 9085 - See how this carriage bolt crushes downjust below the surface?
pic 9086 - The gen/LP bolts stand PROUD. ;)
Off to Home depot for flooring and carriage bolts.
(cheer) 2o2 (cheer) >:( >:( >:(
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Alrighty then. Went and got 4 boxes of flooring, soft mallet and carriage bolts. (Washers and Nylock nuts also..)
Pic 9087 shows the floor after carpet removal. I was sorta hoping the entire surface would be linoleum underneath, but not so.
pic 9089 showed why the carpet was pulling up by the sink... staples were rusted away. Stainless staples would be a nice touch for the BEST MANUFACTURER IN THE BIZ... (nod) But that 2 inch thick floor still has me...well.. floored. :lol
pic 9090 answers the question of how to do it alone... Mrs V was long ago to bed. ((hug)) I was underneath with a socket wrench, up top a screw 'held' the wrench on the bolt. 2o2
pic 9093 shows the progress. I LOVE the antique wood flooring. Wont work for the bath, however. Needs to be whiter-brighter. But thats for another later today.
I am going to enjoy a shot...maybe two... :)(: then bed. I am VERY happy about progress today. :-D :-D
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Great Effort! Great Results!
I take it that your "Carriage Bolt" idea wasn't going to work. That did seam ideal to get the head below the surface of the decking.
Any thought about adding a 3rd captain seat where your barrel chair used to be? Or maybe a wall cabinet there like some PCs opted for?
As far as the flooring goes.....my wife would kill me if I picked it out without her. roflol
I could see myself one day ripping up the carpet and installing a laminate floor. But our carpet and vinyl is still looking great. Laminate or real wood is many years away.
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Well done there, Volkemon ! Appreciate all the pictures !
How are you fastening the flooring down ?
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Great Effort! Great Results!
Thank You! At work, so pics later, but it looks FANTASTIC in there now. 85% finished.
I take it that your "Carriage Bolt" idea wasn't going to work. That did seam ideal to get the head below the surface of the decking.
Carriage bolt idea worked great! Pulled out hex bolts, put in carriageand tightened down until crush sank the head.
Any thought about adding a 3rd captain seat where your barrel chair used to be? Or maybe a wall cabinet there like some PCs opted for?
No, for our use the floor space will be the best. We have (2)
65 Qt coolers.
As far as the flooring goes.....my wife would kill me if I picked it out without her. roflol
Ditto! Mrs V and I went to choose flooring. Ended up with 'Sterling Oak' that looks VERY realistic.
I could see myself one day ripping up the carpet and installing a laminate floor. But our carpet and vinyl is still looking great. Laminate or real wood is many years away.
Pics when I get home, but the carpet in ours was smelly and stained. Evidence of the step leak as I showed before, and water intrusion from the slide. The plywood floor was *spotless* however. That super waterproof plywood is the Real Deal. 2o2
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Yes, Phoenix uses marine plywood for the main deck. At least they did back in 2006/2007, assumed they still do today.
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Well done there, Volkemon ! Appreciate all the pictures !
How are you fastening the flooring down ?
Thank You!
Well... not fastening it down. it is a 'floating floor' system. per install PDF - ""Do not glue, nail, screw or fasten to substrate.""
Its pretty solid stuff with a rubber-like backing. I am going to caulk around the edges to seal it. The manufacturer calls for a 1/4 inch gap on all sides for expansion from heat... and I am tighter than that in a few places. With the 'side to side' maximum width at 7 feet, I dont think it will be a problem. The 'front to back' will have a cap over the front, and will allow for slight movement.
It IS a bit of an experiment.. the install PDF says ""CAUTION: DO NOT INSTALL IN all exterior installations, seasonal porches, boats, campers, RV's, sunrooms, solariums, non-temperature controlled rooms or homes"" :beg
and ""Vinyl planks are not intended for use on stairs or vertical surfaces"" but I will be gluing it on the vertical part of the entrance stair. Be gluing/screwing for trim and under the sink also.
But... for ~$300 in materials it wont 'break the bank' if it fails, and other flooring must be installed. It looks SO good i will gamble and see.
More pictures coming tonight!
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Yes, Phoenix uses marine plywood for the main deck. At least they did back in 2006/2007, assumed they still do today.
2o2 good stuff. I pre-installed mounting bolts for the battery storage. I was IMPRESSED at the 2" thick floor. And I must have hit a steel brace on one hole, as it was slow going. Not critical in its placement, so i moved it a little.
There were voids in the plywood, as there were a couple carriage bolts that dimpled the wood down, but did not crush in. I am putting large washers and lock bolts on all of them tonight to ensure everyone stays down.
Still deciding on the bathroom floor.... in a past VW Bus project I used wall tile glued to 1/4 plywood with liquid nails. Then I grouted it with black silicone. The grouting was done over a few weeks, as it had to be done one line at a time. (nod) Took quite a while, but it lasted. Job was done in 1992, and in 2010 I pulled the floor out. Had a few cracked tiles from impacts, and the backing had ROTTED OFF but the tile/grout stayed together in a sheet. Very impressive.
I am confident the same glue-down method will work, but I am hoping this grout will cut the finish time down to one day - https://www.homedepot.com/p/SnapStone-Charcoal-Grey-9-lb-Urethane-Flexible-Grout-11-219-02-01/205814131?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-Pro-PLA%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7rqloZ3a2AIVFhuBCh3iRg_oEAQYAiABEgKZcPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO6fm6md2tgCFUIeHwodNU4OCw
Been reading the install PDF, and it can be floated in the same manner as regular grout. Charcoal grey with white tile might make a neat look. Of course, all selections will be approved by Mrs V first.
Pics after work today. Wish I had stayed home to play with the camper, but better I work to PAY for the camper.. roflol
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Front floor fixes....
Mrs V and I are NOT carpet fans, and wish to get rid of the last carpet in the front of the camper. I am looking into the Full front rubber mat as seen in ryder trucks, etc that use this ford chassis. ONLY thing I have found is the replacement part from Ford, $550. :beg
Junkyard finds will probably be chewed up with holes, etc. so a New item is in order. Any suggestions beyond the Ford part?
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Volkemon, I've had good luck with Weathertech floor mats in other vehicles. Very sturdy, and the ones I have bought for Toyotas fit perfectly. I presume the Ford Econoline mats would be right for PCs.
http://www.weathertech.com/ford/2014/econoline-e-series/floor-mats-all-weather/
John
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Front floor fixes....
Mrs V and I are NOT carpet fans, and wish to get rid of the last carpet in the front of the camper. I am looking into the Full front rubber mat as seen in ryder trucks, etc that use this ford chassis. ONLY thing I have found is the replacement part from Ford, $550. :beg
Junkyard finds will probably be chewed up with holes, etc. so a New item is in order. Any suggestions beyond the Ford part?
This: Select E-350 Super Duty to see the one piece mat. Be sure to specify your correct console type. With storage compartment means there's a flip down door on the bottom with an open cubby hole above. The mat fits snugly but it's designed to use on top of the carpet. The back edge stops about 2" before the cab meets the raised floor, and it doesn't quite cover all of the driver's side wheel well . Lots of colors for Mrs V to choose from 2o2
http://www.autoanything.com/floor-mats/79A4424A0A0.aspx
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If you decide to do the front cab area be aware that heat in that area from the engine and exhaust is a concern. I recommend you leave the existing carpeting in place to serve as insulation and put a rubber mat over it. If you remove the carpet I would lay down an insulation material for heat and sound abatement and put the rubber mat over that. You will find that the floor , particularly in the front passenger area , gets quite warm while driving in hot summer weather.
You have done well with your rig, keep up the good work.
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We have the full floor Ford rubber mat over the carpet and I worry about moisture under the mat, held in by the carpet, and rusting the cab floor. I don't know if that would happen but I hope to someday take out the seats, remove the mat, and tear out the carpet (I hate carpet.) My original thought was to have a bare floor and get it spray sealed like they do in truck beds. Someone suggested I check with an installer and see if they'd give me a deal if I brought the rig in when they were doing other jobs as they could use the excess goop in our cab. I haven't checked that out yet.
Once we got the rig and experienced the heat, I modified my plan to this: rip out carpet, get floor sealed AND put Ford mat back on top for insulation. Since we went with vinyl throughout, that would leave only the bit of carpet on the stair riser and that should be an easy replacement with vinyl.
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Thank you McDucks! But the WeatherTech mats are 2-piece for the E350. I am looking for the 1-piece solution.
Thank You to CalCruiser also. I found that link also, but the dimpled pattern was not to our liking.
If you decide to do the front cab area be aware that heat in that area from the engine and exhaust is a concern. I recommend you leave the existing carpeting in place to serve as insulation and put a rubber mat over it.
Thanks DynaDave!
After looking closely at the flooring in front, and talking with Mrs V, this does appear to be the plan of action now.
We have the full floor Ford rubber mat over the carpet and I worry about moisture under the mat, held in by the carpet, and rusting the cab floor. I don't know if that would happen but I hope to someday take out the seats, remove the mat, and tear out the carpet (I hate carpet.) My original thought was to have a bare floor and get it spray sealed like they do in truck beds. Someone suggested I check with an installer and see if they'd give me a deal if I brought the rig in when they were doing other jobs as they could use the excess goop in our cab. I haven't checked that out yet.
I went searching through many other forums about putting down the vinyl plank, and often there was HORROR stories about people trying to remove the glued on carpet... and a few tugs here and there made me think the carpet in the front of our cruiser is WELL glued on most of the floor. (Not at the very front, however)
I have experience putting on bedliner, and there was no 'excess goop' from jobs. We used what we needed out of the drum. If the drum had a small amount that would not be enough for the next job, we switched to a new one. Then once the new one was drawn down, put the remainder of the old in.
About the water being trapped... I had a HUUUUGE leak when i first got the camper that soaked the drivers side floor on a regular basis. Removing the step guard, and peeling back the carpet shows no sign of rust (WHEW!) I think the glue may protect...
So... after *actually looking closely* :lol at the front floor, I realized that it is going to be easier than I thought. (cheer) (cheer) (cheer)
I am going to leave the original glued in carpet for noise and heat control. May put a radiant barrier above it for a little more heat control. and because I happen to have a roll to use.
The step wells on my cab are black plastic. 2o2 AND they cover the edge well. And there are only simple bends, no compound curves (ie:bowl shape) except for the very top under the pedals/forward of the passenger feet. 2o2
So I am topping it with this -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diamond-Deck-5-ft-x-9-ft-Battleship-Gray-Golf-Cart-Mat-82059/206315010?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-Pro-PLA%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbOGl83c2AIVT57ACh2ykQ5ZEAQYAiABEgJVQ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMPqlZzN3NgCFcQPgQods4AA-Q
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/5512b8a4-5c40-4c90-a789-d36bdace6708/svn/diamond-deck-garage-flooring-accessories-82059-c3_1000.jpg)
""Great for workshops, basements, trailers, laundry rooms, mud rooms, bathrooms, toy haulers, motor-homes and camping. Perfect whether you need a temporary or a permanent flooring solution that is tough, waterproof, durable and easy to install.""
YEAH BABY!!!
1/8 thick PVC. The areas in the front that have the slight compound curve can be easily formed with a heat gun and sandbag. IF needed, I can even solvent-weld it. Not to mention its about 12% the cost of the Ford rubber mat AND tougher. Will look tough also. Even matches the grey of the dash.
May need to 'shave' the carpet fibers off around the edges to get a good fit, but otherwise looks like a WINNER.
Sorry about no pics... had a large Honey-do list to attend to after work, then interior design meeting with Mrs V. I have to pull out some of the planking below the slide to shim up the floor for the rollers. Needs to be up ~1/4 inch. No biggie.
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Just my 2 cents on this. We place strategically cut pieces of clear stairway runner on our carpet for cleanup and preservation reasons. The piece that covers the carpeted area between the
front seats gets surprisingly wet underneath when driving. I always lift and let it dry at the end of the day. Not doing so might cause the trapped moisture over time to promote mold which is
never welcome.
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Just my 2 cents on this. We place strategically cut pieces of clear stairway runner on our carpet for cleanup and preservation reasons. The piece that covers the carpeted area between the
front seats gets surprisingly wet underneath when driving. I always lift and let it dry at the end of the day. Not doing so might cause the trapped moisture over time to promote mold which is
never welcome.
10-4 on that!! Discussing 'Entombing' the carpet up front with the PVC liner, spraying it (and letting it dry) with a mold/mildew inhibitor like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126
(I do NOT work for Home Depot, but they are SO damn handy... roflol )
The dried residue will be 'reactivated' with water should a leak/condensate cause a problem.
Did a little more on the floor today, and am behind on pics. (nod) Lets GO!
Pic 9097 shows the heads of the carriage bolts that will hold the battery pack.
Pic 9098 show the studs poking down under. I have since added 1 3/4 washers, lockwashers and nuts to secure them. This leaves ~ 1 1/4 inch of thread to mount the battery support system.
Pic 9099... a map. I am going to be installing a trim piece over the edge of the flooring, secured by screws. There are already screws there to hold the step in place. I do *NOT* want to try to put the trim screws where they are. :-D So I made a map of where they were, using the wall and cabinet as reference points. Now I can place my trim screw holes with confidence. 2o2 I made a similar map to chart the four holes in the floor for the table. We did not find the table useful, and will not be putting the floor brackets back in. We might want to later, so i made a map that goes into the RV record book.
Pic 0102 - It looks great. ;) Still more trim to go up, but the big picture is clear. :)(:
pic 0118 - fitting up the stair trim. It is gonna look GREAT! (cheer)
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one more round... :)(:
If you look at the post above, you will see I have removed the rear trim off the step area. This was a bit of a challenge, as it was installed at the factory BEFORE the door was put in. :-[
Pic 9114 shows the two mounting screws. The Yellow one, easy to get. The red arrow shows the location of screw 2.
Pic 9113 shows the hidden screw. >(
pic 9115 shows the solution. I took every 3/8 socket extension, a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter, every 1/4 drive extension (I got toolz) , added a 1/4 deep socket, then the #2 Phillips driver out of the cordless drill... and it reached. Bent enough to make it easy. 2o2 If you dont have a pile of tools, a #2 Phillips screwdriver on a broomstick, duck-taped securely, would be a good try.
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We have the full floor Ford rubber mat over the carpet and I worry about moisture under the mat, held in by the carpet, and rusting the cab floor. I don't know if that would happen but I hope to someday take out the seats, remove the mat, and tear out the carpet (I hate carpet.) My original thought was to have a bare floor and get it spray sealed like they do in truck beds. Someone suggested I check with an installer and see if they'd give me a deal if I brought the rig in when they were doing other jobs as they could use the excess goop in our cab. I haven't checked that out yet.
Once we got the rig and experienced the heat, I modified my plan to this: rip out carpet, get floor sealed AND put Ford mat back on top for insulation. Since we went with vinyl throughout, that would leave only the bit of carpet on the stair riser and that should be an easy replacement with vinyl.
well... after finding wet carpet on the passenger floor, plans have shifted again. I am closer to your way of thinking.
The damp carpet was a bit of a disappointment, but glad i found it. Got pics and writeup in my rain leak thread.
good news however. Pulling up the carpet I found that the glue barely sticks to the carpet. Stays on the floor. Carpet peeled up easy to the passenger seat base. :-D So carpet is going away.
To compensate for the sound and thermal barrier loss, a two pronged approach.
First the noise abatement. Cab area is figured generously at 30 sq feet (60in x 72 in) and this noise deadening kit is on the way -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=psdc_15709561_t1_B003TUNRGM
I went for the kit with roller and tape. I have used similar product, and it works very well.
For the thermal insulation, I already have Metalized Mylar single Foil Bubble Wrap. Over buy from a job. Decent insulator for being so thin, but a great radiant heat barrier.
https://www.ecofoil.com/Single-Bubble-Foil-Insulation-Foil-Both-Sides-4x125-500-sq-ft?gclid=CjwKCAiAhfzSBRBTEiwAN-ysWKXJfme4aN18HBCg90M-5JAH717_33sZOjZMyvin7WUH6x-vZGXYWxoCDQIQAvD_BwE
"" It is 96% reflective and 4% emmissive, which means the product only allows 4% of radiant heat to pass through it.
To put it simple, the insulation does not try to slow the way heat passes through it, the insulation tries to eliminate heat from passing through it.
EcoFoil Single Bubble Foil Insulation is constructed of a single layer of polyethylene bubble insulation, bonded to two radiant barrier metalized sheets.
The insulation not only works well to reflect radiant heat, but it also works as a vapor barrier, preventing condensation which can cause mold. ""
(cheer) I like that! (cheer)
And ordered the PVC sheet to top it with.
Once i find the source of the passenger side moisture, I will be ripping out seats and laying a floor. 2o2
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WooooHoooo!!
Still a bit sore from fridays show, but finally getting pics up.
Pic 9120 shows the area of carpet i found soaked. Rust trails show it coming from the A pillar
Pic 9123 shows the rust trail.
Pic 9166 shows the final floor mat and the sound deadening pads
Pic 9167 The sound pads from Russia... With love.. :)(:
More to follow! I have the entire front floor done. The loudest thing going down the road is the wind in the mirrors. 2o2
Meanwhile, in the back. I put in some lights below the sink/stove before I put up the trim board.
Pic 9149 Shows the lights on, and we are looking forward to the cab. My new batteries on the left side, awaiting placement.
Pic 9150 is a lot closer to how it looks in 'real life' looking back towards the commode. The lighting is perfect for late night moving. :-D
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Ok... back to the cab. The removal of the old carpet , the application of the sound deadening and the application of the insulation all took place late Thursday after work. The mat went in friday morning and the cab was complete by friday noon. Bit of a whirlwind process, and I dont have pics of the insulation being taped down.
pic 9185 - The First Piece installed. This story has a happy ending. (cheer) (NOT sure why this shows first. >( )
pic 9170 shows the calm before the storm. :lol
pic 9173 shows seats removed. Pretty simple process, but WOW are they heavy.
pic 9177 shows carpet removed. VERY easy. 2o2
pics 9180/81 show the factory sound deadening. Not much there at all. :beg
Coming up next... Shiny silver stuff!! :)(:
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Ok... had some trouble posting, hope it sorts out. Done this post 4+ times so far...
pic 9188 is passenger floor starting point. Used the scraps in the wheelwell.
pic 9189 is the entire floor sound deadened. Well covered, small gaps are OK.
pic 9191 - insulation fastened to the back and ready to fit forward.
pic 9192 - passenger floor fitted.
pic 9193 - My loverly assistant pulls carpet staples that I left in for some unknown reason. :)(: (cheer)
pic 9198 - top layer of mat secured to the back edge, rolling forward getting fit.
I am not going to push the attachment limit. It says 10, but maxes out on size at 7 or 8.. :cool
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Home stretch! Almost done.
Pic 9200 - once again, slit in the middle and fit one side at a time. I really wanted to have no seams in the footwell area, so I trimmed SLOOOOOOWLY and left a lot of extra as I went.
pic 9201 - JUST what I was aiming for. One piece footwell. (cheer) :)(: (cheer) Still a bit more trimming needed around the engine.
pic 9202 - Passenger footwell. I over insulated that area and smoothed it out for Mrs V.
pic 9205 - Finished. The lumps worked themselves out as the material relaxed. 2o2
pic 9206 - Mission Ready cockpit. We fear no muddy boots. :lol Floor has some give, like a thin gym mat. All I need now is the edge trim for the cab/coach transition and for the stepwell in the coach.
Road testing friday night was VERY satisfying. Cab is super quiet, the wind in the mirrors is the loudest thing...tires are a close second. When sitting there idling, the A/C clutch kicking in can be heard slightly. I am still travelling with the radio off so I know all the noises.
Getting close to our ideal festy coach inside. Mrs V is *very* pleased. 2o2
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Home stretch! Almost done..........Getting close to our ideal festy coach inside. Mrs V is *very* pleased. 2o2
Mrs V being very pleased is most critical. Good for you. Keep up the great rehab effort. It sure is looking fine.
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Home stretch! Almost done..........Getting close to our ideal festy coach inside. Mrs V is *very* pleased. 2o2
Mrs V being very pleased is most critical. Good for you. Keep up the great rehab effort. It sure is looking fine.
Thank You! And for the record... I barely fit into the storage bin in back. Mrs V will not, she has the common sense not to go crawling into storage bins. roflol
Had my metal shop bend up some 2x2 angle from the 'dress' aluminum diamond plate. Made the transition pieces between the cockpit and coach perfect. Also trimmed the exit stairs for the coach. The shiny trim really helps draw the eye to the change in level, the wood(look) floor sorta blended that in. Safety and cool looks. ;)
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Hi Volkemon,
Just finished reading through you re-flooring project. Very nice work and the final product looks great.
Fred
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Thank You!
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Great job! Congrats! 2o2 2o2
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Volkemon, I know this is old, but want to thank you for such detail in your pics and write-up. The question I have is: did you just lay the planks over the plywood and vinyl flooring, OR did you take the old vinyl flooring out? If you laid over, did you need to put some leveling compound of some type from the plywood to vinyl?
Thanks, Bob
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Volkemon, I know this is old, but want to thank you for such detail in your pics and write-up. The question I have is: did you just lay the planks over the plywood and vinyl flooring, OR did you take the old vinyl flooring out? If you laid over, did you need to put some leveling compound of some type from the plywood to vinyl?
Thanks, Bob
NO worries Bob! I am just following Ron D's lead for helping others. He is a hard act to follow. (exactly)
Removed the carpet, then I just put the planks down over the vinyl and plywood. The flooring is VERY rigid, I can see no indication where the edges of the vinyl are. I really have been very satisfied with the flooring too. I would recommend it to anyone.
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Thanks for the reply. I just finished installing the same vinyl flooring in a bedroom. I will be doing 1 more bedroom and the rv with it. Again thanks for sharing.
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Nice job all around.
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Just recieved a message with questions on the flooring, figured I would update.
LOVE the flooring. TUFF stuff. It has had dirty festival boots on it, and audio/video equipment put in and out. Often without much time to spare, we gotta breakdown, pack up and get HOME. (Last weekend it was leaving Jacksonville at 0130 hrs and getting home at 0530 :beg ) No time for niceties. Stuff gets piled in, often with volunteer help. 65Qt coolers are sometimes scraped across it... full... and NO scratches. Worth every penny.
The noise dampening and heat barrier under the front mat has proved a good value. 4-5 hours driving, and my camera case and other gear on the floor between the seats is barely warm. It is SO quiet in there, I can hear Mrs V asleep in the bed in back. She purrs... it is NOT snoring... roflol heartshower heartshower
The one piece rubber mat in the front has also been a boon. The camper has developed a leak, I suspect the awning rail/front cap interface is the source of it. Parked with the nose downhill, especially with the right side low, will have dripping water from the right front corner of the headliner support panel. This drips to the floor, then 'harmlessly' out the passenger footwell. NO carpet turning into an ecosystem with musty smells. :lol
Hoping to have it in my shop where I can tear into it while its out of the weather.
I have yet to finish the bathroom floor. Just hasn't made it to the top of the 'honeydo' list. One of these years... (WH)
Happy motoring and clear highways to ALL Y'all!