Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: mhoecker on December 22, 2017, 09:29:01 am
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We have been researching the Phoenix Cruiser and feel almost ready to place our order - a 2552 most likely. We want to hear from those of you with experience to guide us in what we should add, subtract, replace, or not even consider.
We are going bigger so that we can take longer trips - up to a month or more. We want to maximize our storage while maintaining comfortable living and sleeping areas. If there are handling issues, we want to address them upfront and figure when is the best time to have that work done - before or after the coach is built (if there is an option). We aren’t particularly handy so will probably ask to have as many modifications as possible done by the factory.
I am concerned about leaks around the slide out- so much so that I am thinking of not getting one at all. John feels differently. If I am convinced of no problem then I will feel better about the whole thing.
Sorry to be so long-winded. Lots of questions. Thank you for taking time to respond!
Madonna
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My wife and I are in the exact same place with our purchase plans looking at the exact same coach so we'll be following responses very closely as well. Thanks Madonna for posting this!
Gary
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Get the slide
If you use the search engine on this message board, all of those answers are already there. Dozens of members have posted their changes and most with pictures.
We live in our 2552 from November to March. Lots of inside storage but but little outside. Everyone has different life styles and needs. So after reading about changes people made, then ask why.
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Get the slide!
There have been very few reports of any leaks on the 2552 slide. The two issues that have been reported are explained below:
1) On the 2017 model the slide box was changed. There is a rubber gasket at the top but under some circumstances water can get through it. Like if you stand on a ladder and point a water hose directly at it under pressure. Otherwise no issue. Unfortunately Phoenix uses a small "drip gutter" at the leading edge that is supposed to collect water off the roof and drip it to the ground without running down the side of the rig. That drip gutter is open to the rear and when driving at high speed in heavy rain it points a stream of water toward that gasket. Once the problem was discovered a fix was implemented at the factory. My rig had this issue and the simple fix was a bit of caulking at the rear of the drip gutter. No problems since and we have driven in two very heavy rain storms.
2) A few folks have reported water running into the rig while stationary and the slide extended, myself included. In all cases that I have seen this was caused by having the rig out of level so that water ran toward the coach instead of away. I did a very sloppy job of leveling one night and had water on the floor the next day. That has never happened when the rig is properly level.
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We have a 2017 2552 Phoenix. On the drivers side there is space between the generator and propane tank. Kermit built us a compartment to fit in there giving us a little more storage on the outside. We had it done after ours was built but it would be something to consider when you place your order.
We have the slide. We wouldn't want our Phoenix without it. We have the couch and it gives so much more living space.
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3 people before me here said to get the slide out. I hope the few who got the 2552 without the slide out, will reply in with their thoughts about their decision.
No doubt about it, the slide out is most popular. But my personal thoughts are......If you are NOT traveling with large pets, or are not seriously over-weight people who needs lots of elbow room, the No-Slide with over-size dinette just might be your better choice.
You mentioned the desire for lots of extra storage. The No-Slide dinette will provide piles more storage than the couch inside the slide out. The bench seats offer lots of storage, even more if you request Phoenix leave out the drawers so you can utilize the entire cabinet from above as well as the side door. Also the hanging cabinet above the dinette is deeper, wider, and taller than the one inside the slide out. CLICK HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157682846402944) to see our 2350 with a no-slide dinette. The 2552 version can be made even bigger offering a bigger table and additional leg room.
There is a long list of mostly pip-squeek reasons why a slide-out is not the better choice, but only two big ones why it is.
1) more spacious interior when the slide out is open
2) better resale value because most people prefer the more spacious interior.
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We have been researching the Phoenix Cruiser and feel almost ready to place our order - a 2552 most likely. We want to hear from those of you with experience to guide us in what we should add, subtract, replace, or not even consider.
We are going bigger so that we can take longer trips - up to a month or more. We want to maximize our storage while maintaining comfortable living and sleeping areas. If there are handling issues, we want to address them upfront and figure when is the best time to have that work done - before or after the coach is built (if there is an option). We aren’t particularly handy so will probably ask to have as many modifications as possible done by the factory.
I am concerned about leaks around the slide out- so much so that I am thinking of not getting one at all. John feels differently. If I am convinced of no problem then I will feel better about the whole thing.
Sorry to be so long-winded. Lots of questions. Thank you for taking time to respond!
Madonna
50a shoteline, dual airconditioners and AGM batteries.
Full body paint.. you will never regret it.
I have a slideout in my 2015, 2551 and love it. It had never leaked.
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But my personal thoughts are......If you are NOT traveling with large pets, or are not seriously over-weight people who needs lots of elbow room, the No-Slide with over-size dinette just might be your better choice
Are you saying that those with slide outs are fat? This is the second time you have said this. This kind of remark to justify your reasons is beneath you and this forum.
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There is a rather large list of options and customizations that Phoenix can make to a rig. And they do not (or did not) do a great job of making that list available to potential purchasers. So it is a very good idea for new customers to spend some time reading here and figuring out what is important to them.
My list based on my experience so far:
- Premium convenience package
- Slide. I have the sofa in mine because I have the small dinette in the rear but without that I would probably get the dinette in the slide.
- Full body paint. The price tag will make you gulp. But worth it.
- Insulated glass.
- Back up camera and monitor
- Leveling jacks. I know many say you don't need them but I really like mine and would order them again.
- 50 amp service. This gives you a lot more power available when plugged in. If you are used to tent camping or boondocking then maybe not worth it for you.
- Progressive Industries Electrical management system. This might be standard now but ask.
- Trimetric TM 2030 battery monitor. Otherwise you really have no idea what is going on with your batteries.
- Either a Progressive Dynamics converter or the temp monitor option for the Parallax one that is standard. 4400TAU is the part number for the temperature monitor option.
- MaxxAir roof fans instead of the Fantastic fan. 10 speed instead of 3 so they can be run slower and quieter.
- MaxxAir vent covers on the fans
- Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer
- Shelf over the bed headboard with USB charger for phones and tablets.
- USB charger plugs in various places wired to 12volt, not 120volt. So they operate all the time, not just when plugged in
- Stainless Steel wall splash in the kitchen instead of the mirror. We hang all kinds of magnetic hooks and cans on ours
And some things that are personal choices but should be considered
- Solar panels. Personal choice and depends on your camping style
- A/C units are available in a wide range of options. 13.5K or 15K, heat strips or heat pump. Single or double units. What you get depends on your camping style and where you are at
- Satellite antenna and receiver if you want. They will install and set it up if you send them the receiver.
- Choice of refrigerator. We went with a Norcold DE0061 but I would have preferred a NovaKool. But the standard absorption one works fine. Just research and understand the options.
- Inverter? Choices there as well. pure sine wave or modified. How big? Do you even need one?
- Extra lights outside?
- Extra receptacles inside? 120 volt and 12volt and USB. Think about what you need and where. Easy to install during the build, not so much later.
- awning? we have it and it's OK but have not used it as much as I thought.
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I hope the few who got the 2552 without the slide out, will reply in with their thoughts about their decision.
Ron, you certainly are no fan of a slide but honestly have you have ever lived in a rig that had a slide? If I remember right your 2350 was a big increase in size from your previous rig. Your sentence above is telling: "the few that got the 2552 without the slide". In the 2350 you might be right. It is a smaller, nimbler rig. But on 2552? I think the slide is worth it.
We toured a lot of RVs before making our decision and none of the ones without a slide came close to making the grade for us. But that is why they offer a choice.
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But my personal thoughts are......If you are NOT traveling with large pets, or are not seriously over-weight people who needs lots of elbow room, the No-Slide with over-size dinette just might be your better choice
Are you saying that those with slide outs are fat? This is the second time you have said this. This kind of remark to justify your reasons is beneath you and this forum.
When I sent that out, I thought maybe it was written a bit harsh. Then I thought, "don't be paranoid Ron, it was written just fine". Now I read Tom Hanlon's reply and see I was wrong. I must have similar blood as Donald Trump, weak on "political correctness". I sometimes mistakenly insult others, surely with no intention to do so.
Please Tom, How do I say it properly and still make that point? How about this? Properly proportioned people don't need the extra elbow room as much as everyone else. Does that meet your approval?
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Ron,
A person size does not have any thing to do with wanting slide out. There are many reasons to want the slide out, such as you want the sofa that makes into a bed so you can take along other people, like maybe grand kids. The sofa is a much better bed than the dinette. Maybe you just like the extra room when parked.
You could use your words to say one does not need the larger dinette you can get without the slide out. A right sized person would not need the larger dinette. Maybe you are just to tall to sleep on the regular size dinette.
I hate to think of what you would say about all those people in the big class A or 5th wheels with four or five slide outs. They must be really really huge people to need that many slide outs. I am just kidding you at this point, but I how you get my point.
Have a Merry Christmas and a happy new year.
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Ow again! Ron, give it up. Tender a heartfelt apology to anyone you insulted and don't try to fix it anymore. People are different sizes, have different wants, needs and comfort levels. I don't walk, talk or sit exactly like everyone else. John and I don't cuddle, sleep or lounge exactly like anyone else.
The best thing is to say YOU find the dinette in the slide to be restrictive, while others don't. Some find it restrictive but accepted the trade off of more living space with the the slide.
To each his own.
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Tom posted the same time I did so I'm coming back on his thought. Does people size affect the decision to do all those upgrades and shocks to improve handling? I'm just asking because John and I are happy with the ride without doing any of that but there's a big tray of Christmas cookies staring me down and now I'm thinking those extra pounds could be seriously costly if we have to upgrade the rig to accommodate my new "proportions."
Done thinking - life is short - I'm eating the cookies!
Happy holidays everyone!
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I love your sense of humor!
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One hundred percent agree with others who recommend full-body paint. Makes cleaning the rig almost a pleasant experience.
Also love my solar panel (150watt). Even though I don't often dry camp, when I do, it is nice to see the solar helping to keep the batteries up. I would think that solar would also help keep the house batteries from draining due to phantom loads when parked and not in use for a while.
Finally, I am happily slide-less and I am not a dainty girl. I suggest you try to find some RV's (maybe go to an RV show or two) that do not have slides (not always easy to find) and spend some time in one to see if it would work for you or not.
Happy hunting!
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Ron,
A person size does not have any thing to do with wanting slide out. There are many reasons to want the slide out, such as you want the sofa that makes into a bed so you can take along other people, like maybe grand kids. The sofa is a much better bed than the dinette. Maybe you just like the extra room when parked.
You could use your words to say one does not need the larger dinette you can get without the slide out. A right sized person would not need the larger dinette. Maybe you are just to tall to sleep on the regular size dinette.
I hate to think of what you would say about all those people in the big class A or 5th wheels with four or five slide outs. They must be really really huge people to need that many slide outs. I am just kidding you at this point, but I how you get my point.
Have a Merry Christmas and a happy new year.
Hi Tom,
I get your point. The original point I was trying to make is that some people desire the slide out because they "need" the additional elbow room to be comfortable. (I think I just said it more appropriately) I agree, there are a number of reasons why people desire a slide out, but elbow room is what everyone talks about. I think the full size bed would be the front runner up. Nobody goes for a couch in a no-slide arrangement which leaves me to believe having the couch is not a primary reason.
I am truly sorry if I have offended anyone. I never meant to do that. It's not my way of life, but I do say (or rather type) dumb things now and then. Please give me a little grace on that.
Now back to the original posting question.
The thing about a Phoenix is that you can order one completely stripped down to the bone, or decked out to the hilt. In all my years, I seen only one stripped down. The best bang for the buck option is called the "Premium Convenience Package" which lumps in many RV-specific features in one reasonable price. If you don't get that option, you don't have a fully functional motor home.
We surely love our full body paint job, how great our rig looks because of it. As Carol says, it also cleans and waxes up easier than the unpainted white gel coat.
We got the surround sound system, originally wondering if that would be worth the expense. We are happy we got it.
We got the extra awning on the driver side for our dinette. That was a good decision. I only wished we got one also for the bathroom window along that side of the motor home.
We got the bigger 14 foot awning, 2 feet bigger than the standard 12 footer of the era. That was a wise choice. Get the biggest awning offered.
We spent big money for the thermal pane windows which turned out to be a good decision primarily for sound and no sweaty windows. We don't camp much in extreme heat or cold so we don't benefit often for those reasons.
Here is a list of things we should have had done when our rig was made for us 10 years ago. I later did them myself at a higher cost and the inconvenience of it all.
1) The barrel chair at that time was pedestal-mounted to the floor and had a seat belt, I changed the seat to a 3rd captain seat. Today that seat is a movable Euro chair of which people say good things about. We like our bolted-down seat being a 3rd high-back reclining passenger seat with a seat belt. We also like that it adjusts forward, swivels, and reclines, yet it is fixed to the floor, always in just the right place.
2) We originally went with cloth dinette cushions to save money and also thought the cloth would be more comfortable than vinyl. We later switched to the premium (leatherette/vinyl) cushions which changed the dinette from a place of torture to a place of comfort.
3) I reconfigured our galley to fewer but deep & wide drawers. Someone seen what I did and had their built PC configured similarly.
4) I highly recommend paying more to get two 6 volt AGM batteries.
5) I don't know what roof antenna Phoenix is installing these days. I would make sure not to get the crank up one, but rather a small uni-directional digital-specific roof antenna. I would also consider mounting it one foot rearward, placing it on the main roof instead of the fiberglass cap.
6) I would inquire about the cost to upgrade the steel wheels with wheel covers, to quality Alcoa alloy wheels. Just get a price to see what it comes to, to make a better educated decision about them. I am considering Alcoa wheels when it's time for new tires.
And Tom.... A Very Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.
Ron
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I consider a spare tire a must. I have never needed to use ours but it would be a big headache if I needed it and I did not have it right there with me to install. It may be just for peace of mind knowing I have if I need it. I assume a spare is still offered as an option?
Thanks,
JJ
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I consider a spare tire a must. I have never needed to use ours but it would be a big headache if I needed it and I did not have it right there with me to install. It may be just for peace of mind knowing I have if I need it. I assume a spare is still offered as an option?
Thanks,
JJ
I agree with you JJ. I forgot Phoenix made the spare tire compartment (with tire) an option. I wonder how much longer that rear wall with integrated spare tire compartment will remain be available.
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Back to the original post. Some of my options have been mentioned but will post anyway. We picked up our new 2017 Extended 2552 in August. We elected o have the 2552 extended as I am 6'3" and the beds were too short. I now have an 80 inch bed. The bed is slightly narrow but after several months of use, I don't think the power beds would be useful to us. Also had a higher dome installed in the shower. (nice) Thermo pane (double pane) windows are a must for us. Cooler in summer, warmer in winter and quieter. I also had a switch installed on the dash which allows us to use the dash radio when parked. It takes power from the coach rather than the chassis. Yes, we have a slide. Would not be without one. I had the new style slide seals installed at the factory enroute home for the rally in Sisters and no leaks so far. And the spare. As mentioned, I would not be without a spare. Ever try to get road service going up the Alaska Highway (Alcan) or across Alligator Alley. On a weekend. The DW had some shelves installed in some of the closets. And the full body paint. Looks nicer, easier to wash, and you don't have to keep compounding the fiberglass. You can sit down with Earl and have a good, no pressure conversation about options. He knows his product and has many suggestion worth listening to. Hope this helps.
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I forgot Phoenix made the spare tire compartment (with tire) an option. I wonder how much longer that rear wall with integrated spare tire compartment will remain be available.
That spare, and the 'look' it gives really makes the back of the coach.
Our spare is original, never been on the road.
Hey Ron - looking at this picture at your website - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/6173443001/in/album-72157617468317295/
Whats the door (?) below the water heater? mine has unused area behind.
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I forgot Phoenix made the spare tire compartment (with tire) an option. I wonder how much longer that rear wall with integrated spare tire compartment will remain be available.
Hey Ron - looking at this picture at your website - https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/6173443001/in/album-72157617468317295/
Whats the door (?) below the water heater? mine has unused area behind.
Starting late 2006, Phoenix went from one house battery to two and added a whole house inverter supplying 110V throughout the coach when dry camping. That is where the two batteries are mounted. Click HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157682845982114) and also HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157622075091526) to see some pictures of the battery compartment. Late 2006 to current day, it's like that.
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Lots of great suggestions, full body paint etc. For me if I was going to spend more than a month or 6 weeks living in it I would say start by not getting the 2552 and go larger. I also would not get the twin beds unless your both no taller than 5’6”. I know they have the power bed available in the 2552 but it restricts you to that matress and at first sight it looks nice but it darn sure doesn’t look comfy.
We typically are never on the road much over a month and I wish I had a bigger unit. Mostly for the larger bed options.
I guess for us it comes down to we only use ours to camp. Living in it for 2 to 3months I would want more comfort.
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I worry about the handling of a larger unit and the number of slides. Would love to hear from longer RV owners about the handling. Most of the units I see for sale are the 2910 with an occasional 2552, 2350, & 3100.
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First would be to Clean the Shop then you can find what you are looking for and see what you are doing. When we were there in late July it looked like a junk yard. Too many usable and not usable items are just tossed aside so there is no way to tell what is new or not....was one shop that was organized but others were a mess...Then you can function in a better manner. Standardize installs. And the unit needs 17" tires. These 16"s are too small. Might need a different entry step with that adjustment. The SS covers turn and to check the tire air you have to remove the wheel covers. Need aluminum covers. The 2910 shower install needs to be taller since you step up to get in shower and that makes operatoin handles low. That means if you have nice. Single handles like we ordered you can turn off the water when you move in the tiny shower without meaning to. We ordered an outside drivers side light and were shocked to see it installed on top of the bedroom window so now awnings cannot be installed without a big overhaul. the light should have been in a non slide area since it was to light side area grounds. And automatic leveling jacks would be nice. I know level but still takes some work to make sure things are level. Everything
works better level even holding tanks and doors . Long winded enough for now. Merry Christmas
P S. Longer units are usually easier to handle than shorter. And like automobiles may ride better. Our 31 ft unit works fine... My past unit was 41 ft so my driving experience is beyond a 4 wheeler . P
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we have a 2015 2552. Stock suspension from the factory. No complaints, we were surprised how well it drove after reading the forum. The ride is ok, It’s a truck remember. We have a slide and dinette with ultra leather seats, it’s comfortable. Back to driving—it goes straight down the road, we hardly notice when a truck goes by, pretty much like our Tiffin bus. We just finished our third 5 month trip no problems at all. overall we got 9.5 mpg. As an experiment we stayed in tow/haul all the time and were surprised at the mpg. It’s got 13700 miles on the clock and the mpg was a little improvement over last year. We tow a crv. Aluminum wheels look good however with them you are buying a new hobby, called polishing the wheels. not fun. If you enjoy your new rig as much as we do you’ll be happy.
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Aluminum wheels look good however with them you are buying a new hobby, called polishing the wheels. not fun.
Hi Dave,
I am curious. Why do you feel cleaning alloy wheels for a PC will be more work than cleaning the Phoenix-provided wheel covers? We have alloy wheels on our other vehicles and they clean up very simple and easy as long as they are simple in their design and pattern. The style of the Alcoa wheels are very simple with no nooks & crannies as shown below. It looks like they would be extremely easy to clean. What am I not considering?
Sold Here: https://buytruckwheels.com/e350-e450-16-alcoa-wheel-package (https://buytruckwheels.com/e350-e450-16-alcoa-wheel-package)
(https://buytruckwheels.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/800x800/e9c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/1/6/16028x-kit-btw_1130.jpg)
Ron
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well, the polishing paste and drill motor and the mess was too much for me. We had coated aluminum wheels on one rig but it helped however it didn’t shine like the others. It just seemed like a chore that wasn’t worth the effort.
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I worry about the handling of a larger unit and the number of slides. Would love to hear from longer RV owners about the handling. Most of the units I see for sale are the 2910 with an occasional 2552, 2350, & 3100.
My 2015, 2551 handles wonderfully, the 2552 should be identical as it has a longer wheelbase and is about 2' longer overall.
I should add something about a slide:
A slide that is IN is almost equal to no slide and when properly IN, I have not heard of one leaking. So if you're parked and worried about leaking... just put the slide in.
If you need more room... When it's done raining, put the slide OUT. That is something a no-slide unit can't do... You will always have exactly the same amount of room.
On my 2551, passenger side twin is 74" and my 6' body has zero problems fitting in. The driver side twin is 68" long, plenty of room for my 64" long wife!
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Starting late 2006, Phoenix went from one house battery to two and added a whole house inverter supplying 110V throughout the coach when dry camping. That is where the two batteries are mounted. Click HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157682845982114) and also HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157622075091526) to see some pictures of the battery compartment. Late 2006 to current day, it's like that.
Well isnt THAT nice. (nod)
I had read of you having 6V deep cells, and i 'assumed' they both fit tight in the compartment that houses the current 12V (in my coach).
Thanks!
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well, the polishing paste and drill motor and the mess was too much for me. We had coated aluminum wheels on one rig but it helped however it didn’t shine like the others. It just seemed like a chore that wasn’t worth the effort.
I assume the Alcoa wheels being of premium quality, are clear coated like typical automobile wheels. Before I purchase, I will have to call Alcoa to make sure their wheels are done so. I surely don't want to add more "fuss" to my PC's maintenance.
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Stored inside, and with your incredible diligence, you may have a great life on the clear coat. 2o2
I store outside, so I would never expect 10 year old aluminum alloy wheels to look as brilliant as the shine on my 10 year old polished stainless hubcaps. I expect the shine on the hubcaps to last the life of the coach.
Is there a significant weight savings going to the aluminum rim?
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Stored inside, and with your incredible diligence, you may have a great life on the clear coat. 2o2
I store outside, so I would never expect 10 year old aluminum alloy wheels to look as brilliant as the shine on my 10 year old polished stainless hubcaps. I expect the shine on the hubcaps to last the life of the coach.
Is there a significant weight savings going to the aluminum rim?
You ask an interesting question about the weight of alloy versus steel. In-general with sporty-type vehicles, there is an unsprung weight savings with alloy which translates to improved ride and handling. The increased spin-true precision is another advantage. But when working with the 11,000 to 14,000 pounds of a motor home that cruises between 55 and 70 mph, I doubt any such advantage will mean much.
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Stored inside, and with your incredible diligence, you may have a great life on the clear coat. 2o2
I store outside, so I would never expect 10 year old aluminum alloy wheels to look as brilliant as the shine on my 10 year old polished stainless hubcaps. I expect the shine on the hubcaps to last the life of the coach.
Is there a significant weight savings going to the aluminum rim?
You ask an interesting question about the weight of alloy versus steel. In-general with sporty-type vehicles, there is an unsprung weight savings with alloy which translates to improved ride and handling. The increased spin-true precision is another advantage. But when working with the 11,000 to 14,000 pounds of a motor home that cruises between 55 and 70 mph, I doubt any such advantage will mean much.
M'ok! I am familiar with the "7:1" sprung vs unsprung weight camp, and assumed you were going aluminum for the weight savings.
As nice as the SS hubcaps clean up and look, I would be hard pressed to find good reason to switch to aluminum. Unless they were some awesome billet pattern I just couldnt live without.. that HAS happened. :lol
On my 2006, the front wheel is 'hub centered', and the lug nuts only hold it on. I have had several 'invigorating' experiences removing aluminum wheels (from iron hubs) with this system on other trucks. roflol Be sure to 'dope up' that area well with anti seize when fitting the aluminum wheels. Or possibly the Aluminum wheels are lug-centered. Dunno.
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Stored inside, and with your incredible diligence, you may have a great life on the clear coat. 2o2
I store outside, so I would never expect 10 year old aluminum alloy wheels to look as brilliant as the shine on my 10 year old polished stainless hubcaps. I expect the shine on the hubcaps to last the life of the coach.
Is there a significant weight savings going to the aluminum rim?
You ask an interesting question about the weight of alloy versus steel. In-general with sporty-type vehicles, there is an unsprung weight savings with alloy which translates to improved ride and handling. The increased spin-true precision is another advantage. But when working with the 11,000 to 14,000 pounds of a motor home that cruises between 55 and 70 mph, I doubt any such advantage will mean much.
M'ok! I am familiar with the "7:1" sprung vs unsprung weight camp, and assumed you were going aluminum for the weight savings.
As nice as the SS hubcaps clean up and look, I would be hard pressed to find good reason to switch to aluminum. Unless they were some awesome billet pattern I just couldnt live without.. that HAS happened. :lol
On my 2006, the front wheel is 'hub centered', and the lug nuts only hold it on. I have had several 'invigorating' experiences removing aluminum wheels (from iron hubs) with this system on other trucks. roflol Be sure to 'dope up' that area well with anti seize when fitting the aluminum wheels. Or possibly the Aluminum wheels are lug-centered. Dunno.
I know all about anti-seize on alloys and hubs.....would surely do so. Thank you for the reminder.
The more I think about the Alcoa wheels, the more I am attracted to the idea of getting them. We will see what I decide when there is no more time for thinking.
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Starting late 2006, Phoenix went from one house battery to two and added a whole house inverter supplying 110V throughout the coach when dry camping. That is where the two batteries are mounted. Click HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157682845982114) and also HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157622075091526) to see some pictures of the battery compartment. Late 2006 to current day, it's like that.
Well isnt THAT nice. (nod)
I had read of you having 6V deep cells, and i 'assumed' they both fit tight in the compartment that houses the current 12V (in my coach).
Thanks!
I wonder if Phoenix could retro-fit your 2006 to include the current-day battery compartment. I understand the basic 2350 is unchanged. If you consider it, take a look behind that panel and see if there is anything mounted behind it of which might interfere with the retro-fit. The retro-fit might be affordable, especially if you leave out the whole house inverter.
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Hi Ron!
Sorry for the late reply, festival camping and the holidays have had me 'all-out'.
There IS a big empty space where your batteries are located. 2o2 But I was hoping to fit something else there.
Forward of the side door is a larger empty volume that I am looking at maybe mounting batteries. It would be a great place for them... low down and much closer to the front. I happen to have a spare 2000w inverter, so 'house inverter' is not out of the question. We plan on ripping out the carpet anyway, so things will be MUCH easier to see then.
We 'boondocked' for the festival (5 days) and just running the 'frige we had to start the generator every day to charge the battery. It lasts almost 3 days until too weak to start the generator. >( So we ran the generator an hour a day as insurance. The coach battery is a newer (2016) group 31 truck battery, but NOT a deep cycle. Unfortunately the compartment for the group 31 is in is VERY tight to try to fit (2) 6V golf cart batteries. (plus the compartment is not vented... thought that was a must..) I may try anyway. Probably just get a deep cycle group 31 for now.
BUT... to try to get back on topic.. :lol I would consider the twin 6V deep cycle a MUST HAVE on the RV.
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The battery compartment in our location has a direct channel to the power distribution area by the fridge. Keep that in-mind if placing your batteries forward of the main entry door. Make sure you can safely run the two battery cables around the step and over the exhaust heat shield to the other side.
Having the batteries where you are considering would improve weight distribution, especially when considering where your fresh water tank is. Like our 2007-2350, it is in the worst possible place, directly over the rear bumper and butted against the passenger side wall. But having the tank there does give us both a huge outdoor storage compartment. I don't know any other PC model (current or past) with an outdoor storage compartment that both Irene and I can fit inside. Everything has it's trade-offs.
Good luck placing your twin batteries forward of the entry door. If you decide to attack it, I'd love to see the results.
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Are you guys getting off topic? :-D
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Are you guys getting off topic? :-D
Oops... (exactly)
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Are you guys getting off topic? Grin
It's actually a good subject but will be lost in this thread. Wish we had the ability to pull posts out and move them to a new thread.
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Are you guys getting off topic? Grin
It's actually a good subject but will be lost in this thread. Wish we had the ability to pull posts out and move them to a new thread.
Done.
http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,3012.0.html
We now return to the thread already in progress. :)(:
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My new 2552 is currently being built. I sought my dad’s advise in the process of ordering. He highly recommended I add the surge protector and Lifeline AGM batteries for their quick recovery and being maintenance free. I will be traveling solo most of the time so having leveling jacks were important to me.
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FYI, on my 2017 2552 they could fit 2 Lifeline GPL-6CT 6V 300AH batteries in the battery compartment but need to be laid on their side to do so.
One thing I would add (in retrospect) is an accumulator tank. The water pump is right behind the screen on the passenger side and if you have someone that gets up at night the water pump will wake you up as it is loud and only a couple of feet from your head.
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I agree with gandalf42. An accumulator tank was a great addition to our PC. I installed our tank 9 years ago. If there is room, request a 2 gallon tank. That is our size which runs the pump at logical intervals. The pump runs very quiet because the 2 gallon tank dampens the vibrations from the pump to the pipes.
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I agree with gandalf42. An accumulator tank was a great addition to our PC. I installed our tank 9 years ago. If there is room, request a 2 gallon tank. That is our size which runs the pump at logical intervals. The pump runs very quiet because the 2 gallon tank dampens the vibrations from the pump to the pipes.
Ah HA! That is a needed item for us now. Mrs V got a high efficiency showerhead that mixes air with the water to reduce use but keep a good feeling flow. Works great, but the water pump now cycles like a cat purring. :lol
What pressure did you pre-charge at?
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What pressure did you pre-charge at?
You ask a very good question. It's been a long time since I installed our accumulator tank but I recall debating between 15 and 20 psi, settling in at 17.5 psi. I have since been reading other people setting it over 20 psi. I don't know what the right psi should be. I really should determine the right psi, lift the bed platform, and set it proper for a 40 psi pump....assuming the pump stops at 40 psi.
I am really in the dark on this one.
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I agree with gandalf42. An accumulator tank was a great addition to our PC. I installed our tank 9 years ago. If there is room, request a 2 gallon tank. That is our size which runs the pump at logical intervals. The pump runs very quiet because the 2 gallon tank dampens the vibrations from the pump to the pipes.
How does having an accumulator tank effect winterizing (blowing lines clear with air compressor) if at all? Thanks so much!
Madonna
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Good question, I use antifreeze instead of blowing out the lines. But, I wonder how adding an accumulator will affect things? I added an accumulator on our rig last summer and it improved the pump noise. But I never thought about winterizing it.
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Since accumulator tanks are pressurized they should self drain when the drains are opened. Suspect it doesn't hurt to have them in a vertical mounted position to ensure draining.
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Since accumulator tanks are pressurized they should self drain when the drains are opened. Suspect it doesn't hurt to have them in a vertical mounted position to ensure draining.
Thank you. Will ask for that.
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Since accumulator tanks are pressurized they should self drain when the drains are opened. Suspect it doesn't hurt to have them in a vertical mounted position to ensure draining.
Thank you. Will ask for that.
Actually, the accumulator drains out 99.99999% of the water regardless of the orientation.
Think of it like this.
- Imagine a glass jar filled with water.
- The lid on the jar has two holes.
- Place a large balloon inside the water-filled jar with it's end passing out through one of the holes in the lid.
- Blow air into the balloon.
- Water shoots out the other hole.
- Keep blowing in air until the balloon completely fills the jar.
- 99.99999% of the water is now out of the jar regardless of orientation.
An accumulator is just that. With it pre-pressurized to the right PSI inside, you can see the balloon called a bladder, inside pressed against a perforated metal grate-like screen. That screen prevents the bladder from popping out the opening. The shape of the tank and bladder together assures that all the water gets forced out. Any residual water remaining inside the accumulator is exceptionally minute with no concern of freeze damage.
I would let Phoenix determine the best orientation of the tank in the limited space they might be working with.
If your PC has room, I recommend a 2 gallon tank. We have a 2 gallon tank and it's pump-cycling intervals seem perfect. When full, the tank holds roughly one gallon of water and one gallon-volume of compressed air. I am really guessing wildly on a 50/50 air to water ratio, stated only to help visualize how it works.
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Regarding tank pressure. I tried 18 psi and now have it at 25 psi with a 2 gallon tank. Which is better or correct beats me. I haven’t been on a trip with it at 25 so I can’t say much. We head to Death Valley next month and see what we think of the difference if any.
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Ron, we just got under the wire with adding the accumulator. That is when we found out they had starting building our RV. Very excited!!
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It’s a great upgrade. One of the best upgrades I’ve done under 60 bucks. Would be cheaper but some jobs require 2 beer time outs. It is an upgrade I should have done sooner.