Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: garmp on October 03, 2017, 05:10:33 pm
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OK it's all new to me and I'm paranoid about messing this up. Been reading post to gather info, tips, how to's, etc. Got a great list from this forum of things to do, but I'm dumb I guess. Here's the first 10 items on the list:
1. Dump and clean black and gray tanks;
2. Remove hot water heater plug and drain hot water heater;
3. Turn off hot water heater circuit breaker number 6;
4. Open low point valves;
5. Close low point valves;
6. Close water heater by pass;
7. Drain potable water tank;
8. Attach pressure relief to city water inlet;
9. Attach blow out fitting to pressure relief;
10. Blow out plumbing system with compressed air – 40 pounds of pressure;
a. Kitchen sink – both hot and cold tap;
b. Bathroom sink – both hot and cold tap;
c. Shower – both hot and cold tap;
d. Commode;
e. Outside shower – hot and cold tap;
I need help with #2 Remove hot water plug - - where's that?
#4 Open low point valve - - and that's where?
and
8. Attach pressure relief to city water inlet;
9. Attach blow out fitting to pressure relief: is this really needed?
Not challenging the list, just I'm a dummy with two left hands and ten thumbs.
HELP
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This video doesn't address all models and years (mine for example) but many details will give you a clue on what to look for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNi5rPBQYxU&list=PLxUga0bOXD1YknLxMg7aLIMou7xVO82p4&index=3 Don't do as Earl does removing the hot water plug with channel locks. . .use a 7/8" socket to remove and reinstall it. :)(:
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Thanks, that's what I've been looking for. I must have viewed that a couple of times, but it just never registered. But I still saw no mention of blowing out the system. Do you do this?
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Not sure about your model, but I use the method of filling the lines with rv antifreeze being sure to have the antifreeze in all fixtures and traps including the holding tanks and sanicon. I think Earl has a video of how to accomplish this task. Some folks prefer to blow out the lines.
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I don’t know if blowing out the lines prior to injecting RV antifreeze adds significantly to reducing freeze risk but it is something I have routinely done on a previously owned camping trailer and now do with our PC. I have an air compressor with a tank and pressure regulator and set it for 35 psi. I use a Camco air fitting which I got from Walmart. Each line/valve are individually blown out. After this each line/valve is purged with RV antifreeze as an added measure should any water remain after blowing the lines out.
If air is used one must insure that the pressure is properly regulated and is not allowed to exceed the water system design pressure.
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We have never blown out lines on any of our RVs we have owned and kept in freezing weather, mainly because I've never owned a proper air compressor at the time (do now ;)). I've always just flushed and emptied the hot water heater; closed the hw bypass; drained all lines through the low point drains then closed them; then put RV antifreeze through all lines until (a) the flow was totally pink, and (b) put enough pink into the empty gray and black tanks to insure the emptying valves were covered. In the case of our PC, I run the macerator from both tanks making sure the flow is pink and RV antifreeze remains in the tanks and macerator. :)(:
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Blowing out the lines is an alternative to using anti-freeze. If blown out, there is no water to freeze. Replace the water with anti-freeze and it won't freeze either. You can, but don't need to do both. When you use anti-freeze, its easier to tell that all the water is out (runs pink). But either method works.
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I blow out the lines, but do put a cup or so of antifreeze in the drain traps of all sinks & shower.
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There is one thing I learned when replacing the 110V heating element in my hot water heater. Even though the plastic drain plug is removed draining the tank, 1/2 gallon of water remains inside the hot water heater, keeping the heating element submerged. I was told by the manufacture that it is okay for that water to freeze. The reason for the water remaining is to protect the 110V element from burning up if the 110V switch is accidentally left on while plugged in during non-use.
So......
Make sure if you plug in over winter, the 110V hot water heater is turned off at the control switch for I don't know if 1/2 gallon of water will be enough for many months of submerged protection. As garmp listed, flipping off circuit breaker #6 is also a smart move, though I don't know if we all are wired up the same. I personally don't know which breaker supplies 110V power to our HW heater.
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One more question, at this point. After removing the water heater plug, with a socket wrench, do you let the drain plug our as Earl suggests of replace it and tighten?
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I put it back in so I don’t forget it next spring. It also keeps the bugs out.
The other day I was leaving with my wife to go shopping but as we we leaving I opened the low point valves and all the facets so they could drain. When we got home a couple of hours later, I removed the water heater plug. To my suprise no water was in the tank. Now I wonder why I need to remove the plug unless I want to flush the tank.
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Planning to use your generator during the winter? If so, consider changing to a lower weight oil. The oil weight determined by your local temperatures. As was noted by others, periodic operation of the generator is the recommendation of the manufacturer.
At the local auto store I found a very inexpensive thermometer which included an outside sensor. Easy to hide the wiring along interior molding. Used velcro to affix the thermometer to a shelf board, where it is easy to view. One AAA battery needed, which last for years. Thermometer can be set to sound an alarm at 32f.
You can give yourself a bit of a temperature edge with your water heater if you use mailing envelopes as insulation. Cheap, available, and can be sized to fit. (Remember to remove before using the water heater). Note attached image.