Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: Barry-Sue on May 21, 2017, 05:00:24 pm
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This winter our coach entry lock broke on our 2012 2551. It was a trimark model 060-0650. The plunger, made of white medal, cracked and the door handle became inoperable and unable to pull the plunger back to allow the door to open. My wife happened to be inside and I was outside. She let me in through the cab door and I was able to take it apart so that we could continue using it with just the dead bolt.
Upon returning home, I did some research and found this to be a common problem. Trimark does not sell parts and has actually discontinued this model and replaced it with Trimark model 060-1650.
Instead of putting more money into a Trimark lock I decided to upgrade with a Bauer EM Alsentis keyless entry lock. I read many forums and this lock got high reviews. It was not a plug and play replacement on the PC but installed very nicely after a few minor modifications. The Bauer company was very supportive in answering all my questions and even sent me an extra gasket to use for installation.
Comparing the two locks the Bauer feels very solid and closes very nice. The keyless entry is wonderful. The only cons I have read about them is that batteries may only last three months. However, you do get a considerable number of warning signs that the batteries are getting low. Since we keep the PC in our garage I will remove the batteries when in storage.
It also comes with a key override so I will always have a key handy incase the batteries fail on us. I picked up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5408D-Mini-Silver/dp/B0014EERFA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495398511&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+key+safe on clearance for $1 at one of our local discount shops. I keep it hidden on the outside with a key to the coach, a key to the cab and our toad key. It has saved us on a few occasions.
Barry
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Barry and Sue,
I think you will really enjoy not having to carry your keys around any longer. Even when parked at home, sometimes outside, the doors are locked. So when one needs to just gain entry to retrieve something, you don't need to fetch the keys. Nice
We went with this system: thread -- http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,2463.msg19904.html#msg19904
Believe your system maybe better, as you probably didn't need to build a bezel, as its footprint is smaller than the PC's.
Denny and Barb
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I am working on switching the entry lock to a keyless entry and was in the research stages. Not a lot to choose from and was leaning toward the Bauer because of the reviews. My rheumatoid hands are past being able to do such work and my RV shop (a small local place) is more for the AP. Would like more detailed info from Barry and Denny and Barb on the installation process of each and your experience of how well the lock is working. It seems the Bauer gets overall better reviews.
If anyone else has installed a keyless entry, would love your input as well.
Nicki
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Nicki,
The AP and Bauer are one and the same. If you look at the AP Product website they list the keyless entry lock as the Bauer.
According to the Bauer website they have three different keyless locks. There is the Bauer NE, Bauer EM, and Bauer EM Alsentis. The Bauer NE is for travel trailers and is different from the other two in that it does not have the two pin safety latch to meet the FMVSS206 safety requirements for motor vehicles. The Bauer EM and Bauer EM Alsentis both have the two pin safety latch. The Alsentis model is the latest technology for touch pads. It requires less power, uses less battery and can distinguish between human touch from liquid. I believe they do not even make the EM model without the Alsentis technology. There might get be some older ones out there but I think there were touch pad problems thus they now make only the Alsentis which is basically a software upgrade.
Now that I have installed one, the installation was not hard. Because I had not done this before I really took my time. The hardest part was making sure the striker plate was in the right spot. I had to file a very small portion of the plunger hole to get a good fit. Bauer also sent me an extra gasket to insure no leaks. I have full body paint and had to touch up one very small unpainted area that only I would have probably noticed.
Barry
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Nicki; I think Barry summed it up pretty well. Thanks Barry for you research and comments.
My AP version did require as I mentioned, making a bezel. Below, is another idea, although a bit more pricier.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N58KQMQ?psc=1
As far as battery life, I installed back in August 16, and replaced the batteries once so far in February.
Denny
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I surely understand the convenience of a keyless entry door but in the case with a PC, the keypad is positioned high making it easy for someone with binoculars to watch the code get punched-in. These days with such high quality cell phone video cameras, they can even record it from a long distance.
Do you worry about that?
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Barry, thanks so much for sharing your detailed research. Answers a lot of questions.
Denny, the third keyless door handle you suggested indicates in the spec that it is for "Replaces Standard Handles (approx. 3.75" x 2.75" x 1.5") - 5th Wheel, Bumper Pull, Traveler Trailer, Campers" with no mention of motorhome or RV. So would be reluctant to try it but love the addition of the key fob.
Ron, unfortunately every day a dishonest person finds new ways to rip off others. We are already very careful in using the remote fob to lock the cab when leaving because there have been many cases of thieves recording that signal and breaking in the minute the owner is out of sight. Doesn't take long to clear out the valuables or steal the entire rig. At some point I just have to let go and let God be in charge. Thanks to your comment I will probably shield full view of the key pad when entering the code.
Nicki
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I surely understand the convenience of a keyless entry door but in the case with a PC, the keypad is positioned high making it easy for someone with binoculars to watch the code get punched-in. These days with such high quality cell phone video cameras, they can even record it from a long distance.
That doesn't worry anyone?
Worry? I guess it it depends on where you choose to enjoy your PC. Perhaps it's best to avoid questionable locations. ;) In 20 years of RVing, we have never had an issue of someone trying to enter any of our 4 RVs. . .and as fulltimers, we have traveled widely across America. Believe me, if someone is so intent on entering your rig by watching you with binoculars punch in a door code, they will get in anyway. We have never overnighted in Walmart or any other retail parking lot. We use regular RV parks whenever we don't stay in a CoE, city, county, state or national RV park. If we want economy, there's always Passport America.
We do take caution with leaving high priced valuables (generator when we had trailers, unlocked surge protectors, etc.) accessible to the opportunistic thief. We have never had a lounge chair, Baby Q, dog tether, camp table, or anything else stolen when we leave them outside the rig, even when we leave the site for whatever reason. Not saying it won't happen sometime, but we don't let worring about "things" spoil an otherwise enjoyable lifestyle. Prudence is necessary; locks are necessary; undue worry about things and stuff out of your control is not necessary. Just sayin'. . . Happy trails. :)(:
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No matter when we use a keypad in public we always cover what we are doing with our other hand so we are not concerned about someone seeing our code. This includes ATM machines as well.
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I surely understand the convenience of a keyless entry door but in the case with a PC, the keypad is positioned high making it easy for someone with binoculars to watch the code get punched-in. These days with such high quality cell phone video cameras, they can even record it from a long distance.
Do you worry about that?
Ron,
I can get in anyone's RV in about 10 seconds. The tool to do that is called an automatic center punch. About 4" long and 1/2" around. Simply put the point on any window.. Cab door windows are the best. Push in on the center punch and when the spring releases, the window (tempered glass) shatters into a thousand pieces. Bingo.. You'e in.
That is not some deep dark secret.. It's a well know method used by thieves everywhere.
As a 26 year veteran of the Denver Police, I can guarantee there is nothing that a determined thieft cannot get into. The idea is to make your property nit as easy to get into as other's property.
Keypads have been used for decades and are just as secure as any keyed lock. They offer convenience and peace of mind.
You don't want someone spying on you pressing the keypad, put a beach towel over your head and completely shield yourself as you punch in the numbers.
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You don't want someone spying on you pressing the keypad, put a beach towel over your head and completely shield yourself as you punch in the numbers.
I'm sure that won't draw any attention! roflol
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I surely understand the convenience of a keyless entry door but in the case with a PC, the keypad is positioned high making it easy for someone with binoculars to watch the code get punched-in. These days with such high quality cell phone video cameras, they can even record it from a long distance.
Do you worry about that?
Ron,
I can get in anyone's RV in about 10 seconds. The tool to do that is called an automatic center punch. About 4" long and 1/2" around. Simply put the point on any window.. Cab door windows are the best. Push in on the center punch and when the spring releases, the window (tempered glass) shatters into a thousand pieces. Bingo.. You'e in.
That is not some deep dark secret.. It's a well know method used by thieves everywhere.
As a 26 year veteran of the Denver Police, I can guarantee there is nothing that a determined thief cannot get into. The idea is to make your property nit as easy to get into as other's property.
Keypads have been used for decades and are just as secure as any keyed lock. They offer convenience and peace of mind.
You don't want someone spying on you pressing the keypad, put a beach towel over your head and completely shield yourself as you punch in the numbers.
I agree a thief can easily getting into any vehicle. But there is a big difference between breaking and entering, versus simple entering. The stakes get much higher when doing damage. Offering quiet easy safe entry for a would-be thief is just too tempting for the right person.
About covering up the keypad with one hand and punching in the number with the other hand (or towel over your head roflol) that becomes a two handed operation of which kind-of detracts some of the benefit. You also need to be aware of your surroundings when you are going to cheat......everyone will cheat now and then.
I am very comfortable using a key, especially since I re-key'd the two entry door locks to use a common key. I suppose it's in-part because of what I grew up with and have at home.
I do have a keyless entry fob & push-button start on my 2014 Nissan Altima and I really love it....So you can teach an old dog a few new tricks. :) My PC (both the van with the entry door) with my Nissan fob activated keyless setup would be real sweet.
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We have installed the Bauer EM and "think" we will love it in the long run, because we are loving it the last few days. Do wish it had 5 buttons and, thus 10 numbers, but you work with what you have. As to the security question, the RV shop got input from a local lock shop (love these small towns and how quickly they network). Their suggestion, "If you are really worried, just fake press other buttons in the sequence and work your way up and down the buttons pressing for real the ones that are your combination." We've tried it a few times and is an easy solution. You only have so much time between real pushes so will take a bit to get the timing down.
Nicki
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As to the security question, the RV shop got input from a local lock shop (love these small towns and how quickly they network). Their suggestion, "If you are really worried, just fake press other buttons in the sequence and work your way up and down the buttons pressing for real the ones that are your combination." We've tried it a few times and is an easy solution. You only have so much time between real pushes so will take a bit to get the timing down.
Nicki
I really like your suggestion! I never thought of it, it makes great sense. A "Neighborly" for Nicki.
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My previous post (removed) was miss leading in that you do not have to enter your code within the first four punches....you can punch in as many numbers as you like as long as your code (four numbers) in sequence is entered within your random punches the lock will open, so crooks would have no idea what your code really is if they were watching you. Thanks, Ron G.
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Though this topic was not about breaking and entering, it included that topic. Therefore, I thought I would send the following info which I read on another forum out to everyone. Food for thought for sure.
"Here’s a security issue that may make you want to change your RV locks. Police in Pennsylvania have arrested a former RV dealership employee from Ohio who used master keys to stealthily open doors on RV dealership lots and help himself to TVs and other electronic gear. By the use of the key, or keys, William E. Jenkins of North Canton left no trace of an illegal entry, save for the missing loot."
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When my house door acted out and locked me outside of its own accord (my keys inside), an RV repairman staying at the campground used his master key to get me back in. What I don't understand is the second lock or security bolt, whatever they call it. It uses the same key as the regular lock next to it. Where is the additional security in the (apparently very common) case of someone who has a master key? Thanks for posting the useful info. :)
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The deadbolt is to prevent someone using a credit card or some such thin but sturdy item to pop the lock, not to deter someone with a key. I can pop a regular house lock in minutes with a credit card. If the door closes on its own without turning the knob, then it has the sloped bolt and can be popped. The deadbolt is straight and drives into the doorframe. It cannot be popped in this manner. Just to clarify, I learned the door lock skill after locking myself out of the house on numerous occasions. I started carrying those "sample" credit cards they send you so I didn't bend up my driver's license or legitimate credit card.
Someone skilled in lockpicks could get in even if you get the locks re-keyed. Most security measures stop or deter a casual thief. Few things stop a determined one. It's quite easy to pop the locks on the truck door, jimmy a window, etc.
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What I don't understand is the second lock or security bolt, whatever they call it. It uses the same key as the regular lock next to it. Where is the additional security in the (apparently very common) case of someone who has a master key?
Hi Carol,
All of the older PCs including our PC came with two different keys for the main entry door. Let me tell you that it was ridiculous working the two different identical looking keys. Trying to open the door in darkness was so hard that we entered through the van doors if the front curtain wasn't drawn. I thought I came up with a good idea and made copies so the two keys didn't look or feel the same. That helped only a tiny little bit. A few years ago I had a Popeye moment and removed the lock assembly from the door. I performed some surgery to get the tumblers out and had a locksmith re-key one lock to match the other. The hassle completely went away.
During that same time I re-keyed the spare tire cover so it matched the other locks around the outside. Going from 5 keys to 3 keys was one of my better modifications to our PC. Now our camping key chains have two less keys to fumble through.
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I've been looking at the Bauer EM for a replacement as part of my efforts to reduce key chain bulk.
I see on the Bauer site they have come out with a new Bluetooth version of their NE model lock.
It seems to have some great features including near field technology that lets you unlock the door with one button press in the presence of a paired cell phone.
Would love to get a Bluetooth model but I believe the EM (not the NE) is the drop in replacement for our PCs.
Have tried a couple of emails to Bauer and will probably call them after the holidays to ask if they plan on making a Bluetooth EM model any time soon.
Posting here in case anybody else thinks this would be a desirable upgrade, maybe if they hear from more than one person it would be more likely to become a reality.
Also would love feedback from anyone that has experience with the Bauer EM Keyless Entry.
Thanks and Happy Holidays!
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Jim,
I sent Bauer a message on the Bluetooth version also.
Frank
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I just looked at Bsuer's website, yes, as of now, they only list the NE model but if you look at the smartphone screen shot, it shows connection to NE-BLE2 and EM-BLE2
So I would presume there is an EM model coming soon.
I also noticed something interesting in their product support page where is shows the buttons and says 1 button for 1 or 2 (1|2) etc. So use the same button for 1 or 2. I have used the dual number buttons before and on those, you enter a 1 by pressing the left side of the button and 2 by pressing the right side of the button. That is *probably* the way the Bauer buttons work also, but you wouldn't know that from their support page. IF the support page is correct, you only have 4 x 4 x 4 x 4 (256) possible combinations. If like the Ford keyless, then you have 8x8x8x8 or 4096 possible combinations.
Just saying...
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Thank you Frank!!! tymote
Don: Good eye on that "sneak preview " of what (hopefully) will come.
I tried to figure out if your possible combination count was accurate but my brain started hurting so I will take your word for it. 2o2
Guess it might be affected if there are any restrictions like not hitting the same button twice or possibly being able to use two button combinations like a Simplex lock.
Either way, I think it would do a pretty good job of keeping the casual thief out. A determined thief will find a way.
Thanks for your comments. ;)
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Woke up this morning to a nice Valentines Day present in my inbox from Bauer:
https://mailchi.mp/bauerproducts.com/valentines-day-specials?e=f6e37feca0
The EM latch just became available in Bluetooth!
Not only that but they are offering it today for a 25% discount.
I have ordered mine.
Price is 299, less 75 discount, plus 20 shipping and 15 tax = 260.26
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Something I wanted to mention to anyone considering this upgrade (hope it proves to be an upgrade :) )
The EM latch can be ordered keyed alike to your back and sliding draw slam latches for free.
They also sell replacement latches that replace the dreaded ch751 locks with the same key options.
This helps debulk the keychain and adds a bit of security if you hadn't already replaced the ch751s.
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Thank you Jim I ordered mine too!
Update: They were not able to match the locks on the slide draw and rear as they are Global locks not Bauer.
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RheaNL, that's what we've been doing, the fake press, since we got ours. If someone is watching from the rear, my body blocks the view, so the line of sight must come on an angle. We fake press along side the numbers. A couple before the actual code and another one or two after.
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Thanks for the heads up Jim. Ordered mine. Looking forward to the huge up grade. FYI.....they are offering the same deal for Presidents Day !!!!
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Hope they work out for you guys as well as I anticipate!
Timing on this was uncanny, I was just about ready to give up and pull the trigger on the non Bluetooth version.
Patience is not my strongest virtue. :-D
Then this came out and even cheaper than the original!
I ordered match keyed locks for the gasoline fill, outdoor shower, city water and gravity water fill doors. All matching my back and side drawer storage compartments slam latches.
Wish they made a replacement for the small side bins too.
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I shared this in the past.
On our 2007 2350, I managed to get our PC keys down to this which is very manageable.
1) The Ford key (van doors and ignition)
2) The smaller rectangular headed key is the entry door (both latch and deadbolt)
3) The smallest round-headed key is for everything else
It's good enough for Irene and me, feeling for the right key in the dark.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/8383/29522436135_ae44827a94_w.jpg)
Unfortunately the tow vehicle and locks related to towing it, adds another 3 keys, so the over-all bunch is still a lot. :'(
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My Bauer EM Bluetooth Lock was delivered today, now I just need my PC back home to install it.
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Got mine today too! May try installing tomorrow if time / weather allows.
Wasn't terribly impressed with the packaging. But it feels well made.
Have you gotten any date when they will be done?
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The insurance company called me yesterday and said it should be done in a few weeks. Once the interior is done then it will go to the paint shop.
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Frank: Glad things are getting close for your rig. Hopefully all will turn out well.
I installed the Bauer EM BT today. Install was not quite as smooth as I had hoped.
First, because the PC paint job was done after the original latch was installed, there is no paint behind the old latch and the new latch does not cover the old footprint.
Nothing a bit of the touch up paint PC provided can't fix, but something I hoped I wouldn't have to do. That will have to wait till warmer weather.
The other issue I ran into was the position of the strike plate. After fiddling with it for over an hour and not being able to find a position where the door latched tightly AND the deadbolt could engage, I finally gave in and took the Dremel to the mounting holes so I could move the strike plate more towards the outside of the rig. This seemed to work but I ran out of time before I got it perfect. It's now latching well but the door is a bit tight to open. Didn't have time to program it yet either.
I did end up swapping in the Bauer strike plate even though they seemed dimensionally identical because the old plate was a dull galvanized looking thing and the Bauer plate has a more shiny / clean looking plating.
All in all it seems like a well made product. though the key/tumbler and deadbolt mechanism have a slightly cheaper / lighter feel to them than the original but seem to work well.
Hopefully next weekend I'll get a chance to fiddle with it some more and get it completed.
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Jim thanks for the heads up. I always had to slam my door closed and fiddle with the strike plate to get the dead bolt to work. The body shop noticed some scrapping of the paint at the bottom of the door jam so they are going to adjust the door alignment and touch up the paint where it was scrapping. The original strike plate is floating I noticed the one from Bauer will be fixed. Once I get the rig back I will get to see how it goes. Let me know how you make out after your adjustments when you get back to it.