Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: WillLloyd on April 20, 2017, 08:37:42 pm
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I want quite happy with the installation of the mud flap. I don't know if the factory installed this or someone else. Regardless, it looked like a couple of 14 YO drunk kids put it on. I didn't take any before pics but with a length of angle, some bolts, and rework of the support bracket, it now looks acceptable. Not perfect, but acceptable. Hopefully i attached pics correctly.
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It just may be the angle of the picture, but in the top picture, it appears the mud flap is actually touching the tires. If so, that's not a good thing.
When going forward, the tire rotates counter-clockwise and eventually will pull the mud flap up over the too of the tire causing noise, damage and smoke.
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CAUTION: Never back up out of a large pothole or over a curb, tire will pinch the mudflap and tear it loose from bracket.
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Or backup while bogged down in deep sand. Ripped them both off. :help
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All good suggestions, not tearing the mud flap off. And yes, it hits the tire. It hit the tire before i started, and it hits it now. It just looks much better doing so now....
The angle an location at which it hits the tire should make it impossible for the tire to grab it. Of course, now that I typed this, the chances just when up exponentially. Unfortunately, with the water tank, fender brace, and wheel box, there are no real options.
Thanks though.
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We have to take precaution when backing the rear tires on our Lynx leveling blocks. The one mud flap can be temporarily tucked up, but the other one, my wife has to hold it up. I really should do something about it.
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My rear mudflaps are mounted very differently and have about 6" clearance to the tires.
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I have good mudflap clearance to the tires as well.
My mudflap issue is only when backing up onto Lynx blocks, the mudflap hangs so low that it gets pinched between the Lynx components and tires. I like the low hanging mudflaps so I would never consider trimming them shorter so I work around the problem by hand which is not the safest method. As I mentioned before, to do it right I need to come up with a simple hook system to hold the mudflap up and out of the way when driving up on the leveling blocks. This way everyone can stand clear.
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I have a feeling the 2910 is more crowded in that area than your units. My water tank and associated hangers prevent moving it further back. Photos from a 2910 showing otherwise would be helpful. Thanks.
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Ron and everyone, I would recommend a hook system like you mentioned rather than risking having someone hold the mudflaps clear, as that doesn't sound like a safe OSHA maneuver. On some surfaces, I've occasionally had boards (granted, not as grippy as Lynx or equivalent) kick and fly fore or aft depending on direction of wheel rotation, and have seen gravel fly. Of course, we've all either been driving the vehicle or gingerly stablizing blocks with another block or risked fingers while someone else drove, but the sight of flying blocks is scary and I sure don't like risking it. If a hook or a means of somehow quickly detaching mudflaps would work, I'd be all for it.
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Or just don't back up onto the blocks. Figure out where you want them, position the rig a little back from that, place the blocks, then pull onto them forwards. (cheer)
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All good suggestions, not tearing the mud flap off. And yes, it hits the tire. It hit the tire before i started, and it hits it now. It just looks much better doing so now....
The angle an location at which it hits the tire should make it impossible for the tire to grab it. Of course, now that I typed this, the chances just when up exponentially. Unfortunately, with the water tank, fender brace, and wheel box, there are no real options.
Thanks though.
"impossible" is not a word I am familiar with. After spending 26 years as a police officer I have seen many, many so called impossible things occur.
The tire rubbing the mudflap will start to eat its way through the mudflap. When the mudflap gets thin enough, it will fold backwards and the stubtop *could* grab the tire and flip into the wheel well.
I am not saying it *will* just that it could.
Obviously it is your vehicle and you may be happy with things, I am just offering my 2 cents.
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Or just don't back up onto the blocks. Figure out where you want them, position the rig a little back from that, place the blocks, then pull onto them forwards. (cheer)
Ditto, exactly what I do. DW stands up front where I can see her clearly and guides me on the blocks.
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Or just don't back up onto the blocks. Figure out where you want them, position the rig a little back from that, place the blocks, then pull onto them forwards. (cheer)
Ditto, exactly what I do. DW stands up front where I can see her clearly and guides me on the blocks.
You would think that makes sense, but I want the wheel chocks on the down-hill side of the equation so gravity rests the tires against them.
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Wish I would have red this before I backed up on to my leveler blocks and pinched the mudflap and tore it off the mounts .... does only know the size of the mud flap the factory used on th 2011 2552 lt looks like a 24"x 24" with some customers trimming down to 21" on one side to merge with the rubber fender skirting .. does that sound right. Im looking for the right size mud flap now and a place to install it
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Wish I would have read this before I backed up on to my leveler blocks and pinched the mudflap and tore it off the mounts.
I almost did that with our 2007 2350.
Before backing onto leveling blocks....
On the right side, I position the mudflap on top of the tail pipe.
On the left side I made a small hole in the mudflap and hang it on a hook that I added.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1890/44096697452_2ebe8c8d8a_z.jpg)