Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: tnedator on February 19, 2017, 07:34:08 pm
-
Ok, i'm getting close to pulling the trigger on my first RV and a PC. Likely a 2551 or 2552.
As PC is very accommodating with changes unlike most other companies, I want to make sure I get it right.
What I'm really wondering about is non standard options. So, not talking about full body paint or levelers, but instead items like Gandalf described in his thread (pure sine inverter, extra backer board in places, etc.).
Some of the items I have so far:
110, USB and 12v outlets in cubbies over head side of twin beds.
Possibly a little flip down ledge for cell phone/alarm clock near head of bed
All 110 outlets tied into inverter
110 outlet near (behind) passenger seat if there isn't one already
Solar panels and charging system
AGM batteries
Insulate/heat Sanicon pump
AC w/heat pump (not sure if I need two HVACs for southern US/Florida type travel). Someone mentioned the Coleman fan not cycling on/off (so less annoying at night), need to investigate that.
Side cameras
Maybe collision avoidance/lane departure (need to read more of how this works in E450 setup).
Seems like there are a few more things, but that's what comes to mind at the moment.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what I should consider.
-
Things to think about:
Truck seats: power, swivel, heated?
Keyless entry to truck cab?
Awning?
Backup monitor / side cameras?
Insulated glass?
Leveling jacks?
Ultra leather or cloth seating for truck,dinette,sofa?
Max air covers on fans?
Insulated cab floor?
Satellite dish?
30amp or 50amp service?
Which A/C unit(s)? there are several options.
Solar panels?
Which solar charger? Stock or Trimetric? or other?
Surge protector?
Pure sine inverter? how big?
Stock converter or better 3 stage one?
Absorption refrigerator or compressor?
Trimetric battery monitor?
We added a shelf over the head of the bed with USB ports on the 12volt system for cell phone / tablet charging
Gas grill hookup?
Extra 120 volt receptacles where you want them?
12 volt receptacles where you want them?
USB receptacles where you want them?
Builtin GPS nav system or supply your own Garmin?
TV in the bedroom?
Power bed extension?
Slide or no slide?
Dinette in slide or sofa?
Lighted switches on the heated tanks?
Surround sound system?
Euro chair or fixed captains chair?
Hand sprayer on toilet?
Corian or wood on kitchen extension?
Sink cover for bathroom sink?
Metal back splash or mirror back splash on side wall of kitchen?
Backing in trunk for additional hooks?
Adjustable shelves? where and how many?
Extra security lights around the coach. Especially on the driver side near the hookups.
Safety-plus steering stabilizer
-
Possibly a little flip down ledge for cell phone/alarm clock near head of bed
We pick our 2552 up on March 1. I drew up a shelf with ledge to be mounted over the head of the bed. I can post pictures after we pick it up. If it works the way I think they will already know how to build it.
-
"Which solar charger? Stock or Trimetric? or other?"
I was given no option on this other than the complete Samlex kit or nothing. I can't say whether this is their current policy on solar or a function of how many other changes you request.
Congrats Jatrax on the approaching day of your new RV! Would love to see pictures.
Tnedator: Its a blessing and a curse that PC grants as much flexibility in their build as they do. Wonderful to have the choices but stressful that you make sure you think of everything that you would like. I wish you well though the process. :beg
..Mike
-
Possibly a little flip down ledge for cell phone/alarm clock near head of bed
We pick our 2552 up on March 1. I drew up a shelf with ledge to be mounted over the head of the bed. I can post pictures after we pick it up. If it works the way I think they will already know how to build it.
I'll be very curious to see your shelf, as I've been thinking I need a shelf in this area. Curious if you designed one that is functional without being a head knocker.
Thanks for the long list. Many items I've been thinking of, but some of that is food for thought. You and Gandalf make me realize i need to do some more research on the solar, as apparently there are pros/cons of various controllers.
On the awning, I really like the look of the armless, box mounted units, but wonder if they are less stable in the wind.
I'll be honest, I assumed at this day and age the cab was keyless, but I need to check. I probably need to not assume anything.
-
tnedator,
Here are my thoughts with 10 years of experience with our 2350.
Read through my ongoing post HERE (http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,8.0.html) on things I have done over the years with our PC. Maybe some will spark an idea or two for yourself.
About keyless entry for the van doors. Back in 2007, and maybe applies today, keyless entry is a "Ford" thing and it does not come standard on their E-Series RV-model chassis. Our 2007 E350 is missing the keyless entry controller. I once researched what it would take to add one, learning that our chassis is not even wired for a keyless entry controller. I was not able to determine if the missing wire harness is something I could add myself. My point to this is, if you want keyless entry, be clear about it right up front because Phoenix may have to special order an E450 chassis with keyless entry rather than use an E450 chassis already stretched on their lot, ready for building.
We have the box awning. It is very clean looking by comparison to the motorized one, but can't compare to the ease of a push-button electric awning. I still sit on the fence over my feeling about the two types.
As I feel about our box awning, I decided to delete the rear rack and ladder. For me, that was the right decision for a very clean body as seen HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157617468317295) avoiding all the mounting holes and caulk as well as the unsightly tubing all about the rig. I actually have my rack and ladder in pieces, stored in my house basement, just in-case I ever change my mind. It has been 10 years now so I think it's time to put them up for sale on Ebay. With exception to our very first outing in 2007, I have been lucky not to need the ladder on a trip to untangle the PC from a low hanging tree branch. The rack and ladder increase entanglement anyway.
I wished we had a porch light in the rear and one on the driver side of the rig, controlled on their own shared switch. It would be very convenient to light the area all around the rig as needed. Not just when at the camp site, but also when backing into a primitive site at night. If you avoid hitting just one tree with them, they are so worth it. No tree bumps yet for us, but we got surprisingly close more than once because of darkness.
This I am not sure about, but is still worth mentioning. Phoenix might decline some of your electrical requests if you have a slide-out for it may cut off their means to channel 110V wiring along the driver side wall. Maybe they break their own unwritten code and wire 110V up and over the slide out opening.
Unless there is a parking/storage challenge with the longer 2552, I would surely get that model.....especially if getting a dinette, and even better to have a no-slide dinette so the dinette itself could be made bigger yet. The leg room, table size, and bed size would all benefit. The extra relaxing seat behind the passenger seat in the 2552 is important to have with any kind of dinette.
If your plan is to drive a lot throughout your trips as we do, ask Phoenix about the 3-way hot water tank. The 2-way heats up with propane and 110V. The 3rd method in the 3-way unit, the coolant from the Ford engine flows through the water heater, making hot water while driving. We have the 2-way water tank. I think we would have appreciated the 3-way with our travel style.
One thing I would ask Phoenix about. Can they add redundant gray and black waste tank valve control switches inside the house. Like us, your gray tank is the smaller of the two. You will find the need to blend the tanks once or twice between dumps. I am considering adding one more pair of gray & black tank valve switches so I don't have to run around outside to blend the tanks which always happens during our shower time. Needless to say it's the worst possible time to go outside and blend tanks to let the water drain out from the shower pan.
I really don't like having any more holes in our roof than necessary. (ie: roof rack & ladder). I had wondered if we could have done just as well with a Fantastic fan in the bathroom and do away with the one just outside the bathroom door. Two huge holes in the roof so close together (just a couple feet apart) doing the same job, seems redundant to me. I suppose we'd need a pass-thru grill-vent in the wall. Or maybe a bathroom door that has a gap at the top to allow air to get past a closed bathroom door.
-
"I really don't like having any more holes in our roof than necessary. (ie: roof rack & ladder). I had wondered if we could have done just as well with a Fantastic fan in the bathroom and do away with the one just outside the bathroom door. Two huge holes in the roof so close together (just a couple feet apart) doing the same job, seems redundant to me. I suppose we'd need a pass-thru gill-vent in the wall or the bathroom door not going all the way to the ceiling to allow air to get past a closed bathroom door."
In the 2551/2552 there is a gap on the top of the sliding bathroom door so it doesn't seem both vents are really needed.
I believe the armless awning being referred to are the new ones seen on class B rvs (i.e. Winnebago Fuse or Leisure Travel) that are electric.
..Mike
-
I believe the armless awning being referred to are the new ones seen on class B rvs (i.e. Winnebago Fuse or Leisure Travel) that are electric.
..Mike
Hmm, interesting.
-
I was given no option on this other than the complete Samlex kit or nothing.
I doubt there is anything wrong with the Samlex unit. I wanted a battery monitor and the one most recommended is the Trimetric unit. While investigating that I discovered Trimetric now makes a solar charger that pairs with their battery monitor. It is only a PWM charger not MPPT but on the relatively small solar arrays that fit on these units there will be little advantage to MPPT anyway. So I bought and shipped to the factory both the monitor and charger.
Whether that will turn out to be a good idea remains to be seen. After I've had a chance to test it I will report back.
It is a good idea to keep a distinction between "options" and "customizations". An option being something they have on their option list or have done enough times in the past to feel comfortable with. For example extra outside lights is not really listed on the option sheet but they do them often enough that Earl mentioned them and I said yes. On the other hand I wanted a shelf above the head of the bed for cell phones. This is a customization as it was to my design and not something they had done. I sent a drawing and got a price for it.
The big difference is that for "options" the sales team has a price sheet they can use to quote you. For anything custom they have to go to the design team (Kermit) and have him guestimate the cost. I assume they check the profit margin on each customization and if it works out and enough people ask for it then it gets a standard price and is added to the option sheet. Or in some cases is just added to the standard build if they think it was a really good idea.
-
While they accepted the Trimetric battery monitor and initially accepted the corresponding solar charger they later backed out with the "all or nothing", pulling their acceptance of the solar charger.
Ultimately I took the "nothing" route, deciding to have AM Solar install a solar system. Since this will provide a combo battery/ solar system display, I eliminated my request for the Trimetric battery monitor since it would be redundant.
-
While they accepted the Trimetric battery monitor and initially accepted the corresponding solar charger they later backed out with the "all or nothing", pulling their acceptance of the solar charger.
That is a little worrisome for me. As far as I know that is what was installed on my rig but I will not know for sure until I pick up next month. I wonder if they ran into install issues that caused them to not do yours that way....
-
I really doubt there is any issue. The wiring is pretty straight forward. I feel their "bucket got full" between the other requests that I had and possibly a build up of order backlog and corresponding customizations.
If that is true, I wish they would have just said there are too many changes and let me choose which ones I could keep. As it stands, I can make it work and be happy.
The point that needs to be understood though is just because they did something for someone before is no guarantee they will do it again.
-
The point that needs to be understood though is just because they did something for someone before is no guarantee they will do it again.
Good point and something for new buyers to keep in mind. I wish they had a more standard process but that is the nature of small companies. Much more flexible but that goes both ways.
Another thought on the solar charger is that I think Samlex sells this as a kit which includes the panels and charger. Maybe they did not want to have a shelf full of chargers.
At any rate, swapping out the solar charger is a very minor project. You could have them install the Trimetric monitor and Samlex charger then purchase the Trimetric charger and swap it yourself. I think the Trimetric charger was $120 or so. This is what I was going to do if they would not install the Trimetric one.
Buyers with customizations in mind should remember that anything different from the 'standard' build costs them time on the line as the installer has to figure out the new whatever. They have done this a long time and likely can build the standard rig with their eyes closed. Stopping to read the instructions, figure out the wire sizes and paths and test the install on something new takes time. I was specifically told that they would do some of the custom work I wanted only if it was a winter project when they were slower. Once they gear up with orders they do not have time for delays.
-
on the keyless item - you can have them order your Chassis from Ford with Ford options. might add a little more front end time for it to arrive. I did the special chassis - but not the keyless. I wanted the Ford Sync package as I wanted the bluetooth for my phone and a USB port - but did not want to order the whole Sirrus/Navigation package from PC. While I was at it for just a few dollars I added in the Daytime running lights and the switch that allows me to turn off the passenger air bag (dangerous to have it armed if I have one of the dogs in a seat belt in that seat).
-
jatrax: really interestec in shelf with ledge to be mounted over the head of the bed. You have to post pics and details.
thanks
-
Re, keyless entry: If you have it be cautious using it within a large parking lot when leaving your RV. They now have code catchers where someone close by can catch the keyless entry code as you lock up and then rob the vehicle. Mike Wendland who does Roadtreking videos and podcasts was robbed in that manner of around $12K of items in just a few minutes from his Roadtrek.
-
jatrax: really interestec in shelf with ledge to be mounted over the head of the bed. You have to post pics and details.
I have a number of things they did for me that I have been holding off showing until I actually take delivery. Do not want to jinx anything :)
The shelf is one and I will post a complete report after we take delivery.
One caution though is that the more you customize, or perhaps personalize, anything the higher the potential to reduce the re-sale value. A standard 'generic' coach, or house appeals to a wider audience when selling. Something designed for a specific person or purpose has a smaller audience and potentially a harder time finding a buyer. In our case we designed the coach specifically for our needs knowing that up front.
-
Thanks everyone. A lot of foods for thought.
Yes, I was talking about the electric awnings without arms that are becoming common on coaches.
On batteries, I was thinking two 12v AGM batteries, so if one bit the dust, I would lose capacity but not my whole 12v system. Am I wrong in thinking this way?
If I get the euro chair in the 2552, is there still room to turn half the sofa into a bed with the slide closed?
Ron, I'll check our that thread you linked to and I've tread a number of your posts on other forums. You are a great ambassador for PC.
-
On batteries, I was thinking two 12v AGM batteries, so if one bit the dust, I would lose capacity but not my whole 12v system. Am I wrong in thinking this way?
You are not wrong but in the real world the likelihood of that event happening someplace you could not in a day or so get new batteries is pretty slim. One of those things that gets argued on the internet because it is technically correct, but just doesn't matter.
There are varying opinions on batteries:
1) Only buy Costco golf cart batteries, they are cheap, rugged and work well.
2) Only buy pairs of 6volt batteries, they are 'better' than 12volt
3) Only buy pairs of 12volt batteries, if one fails you still have one
4) Only buy AGM batteries because they are 'better', somehow
5) Only buy regular lead acid, all this new AGM stuff is just fluff to make you spend more money
6) Only buy Lithium, lead acid is so last century
I've read them all and more from folks positive they are right. My theory is buy the best battery for the purpose at the best price and don't sweat it. More important is actually understanding the technology and charging cycle of the battery you are using. Tune your charger to what the battery manufacturer recommends. One thing I already regret is not insisting on replacing the standard Parallax converter with a more modern 3 or 4 stage one. Used improperly you can fry your batteries on old tech single stage chargers without really understanding why.
Here is a good read on batteries: https://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html
And another one: http://www.jackdanmayer.com/Batteries_and_charging.html
-
Not correct about the code catchers.
http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/lockcode.asp
-
Not correct about the code catchers.
http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/lockcode.asp
I like snopes but their article is talking about first generation code catchers from several years ago and viral stories of unknown origen. Mike Wendland's robbery happened about a year ago with a near new RV. His is a personal account from someone well pubished. Unfortunately his reports are on podcasts not youtubes that I could find.
The speed with which they broke into his rig was surprising and the police told him they believed a code catcher was used.
-
"There are varying opinions on batteries:
1) Only buy Costco golf cart batteries, they are cheap, rugged and work well.
2) Only buy pairs of 6volt batteries, they are 'better' than 12volt
3) Only buy pairs of 12volt batteries, if one fails you still have one
4) Only buy AGM batteries because they are 'better', somehow
5) Only buy regular lead acid, all this new AGM stuff is just fluff to make you spend more money
6) Only buy Lithium, lead acid is so last century"
Great summary! (exactly)
"I've read them all and more from folks positive they are right." yep, they are all right and what ever you choose you are wrong! roflol
"My theory is buy the best battery for the purpose at the best price and don't sweat it. More important is actually understanding the technology and charging cycle of the battery you are using. Tune your charger to what the battery manufacturer recommends. One thing I already regret is not insisting on replacing the standard Parallax converter with a more modern 3 or 4 stage one. Used improperly you can fry your batteries on old tech single stage chargers without really understanding why. "
I can't figure why PC is using a Parallax converter/charger. Parallax's webpage tells you nothing about the charging profile and as far as I know they are still using the cheap 2 stage charging. When I first got the Born Free (which had a Parallax in that early model) I was blithefully dumb and left the RV plugged in too long and fried the batteries. That was my first education on charger/controllers. i replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics converter/charger and the batteries with Lifeline AGMs (which are the only AGMs I know of that like an equalization) and can now leave the RV plugged in at home for months at a time.
You need to know what you want to charge and how to charge it correctly both in regards to converter/chargers and if you go solar, the solar charger.
The Parallax can work fine if you keep an eye on the water levels of regular lead acid batteries and if you employ a separate charger to periodically do an equalization. But..for a few dollars more PC could have gone to a better charger. (WH)
-
I definitely need to read up on batteries and chargers. I will admit to liking the idea of AGM so I don't have to check the water and such (call me lazy, but I haven't checked water levels in a batter in a very long time, so it's never on my mind).
On AC's. I think I am unlikely to find myself in death valley or the like, but I suppose some day could wind up in AZ, Grand Canyon area, etc. More likely, would be Arkansas, TX, FL where we can get 95-105 temps with mid to high humidity.
In a 2552, do I really need to AC units or will a 15k unit with heat pump cover it for TX/FL/AR type summer trips?
-
We went for the single 15k unit with heat pump. Whether that is smart I will tell you in a year:)
-
Ok, i'm getting close to pulling the trigger on my first RV and a PC. Likely a 2551 or 2552.
As PC is very accommodating with changes unlike most other companies, I want to make sure I get it right.
What I'm really wondering about is non standard options. So, not talking about full body paint or levelers, but instead items like Gandalf described in his thread (pure sine inverter, extra backer board in places, etc.).
Some of the items I have so far:
110, USB and 12v outlets in cubbies over head side of twin beds.
Possibly a little flip down ledge for cell phone/alarm clock near head of bed
All 110 outlets tied into inverter
110 outlet near (behind) passenger seat if there isn't one already
Solar panels and charging system
AGM batteries
Insulate/heat Sanicon pump
AC w/heat pump (not sure if I need two HVACs for southern US/Florida type travel). Someone mentioned the Coleman fan not cycling on/off (so less annoying at night), need to investigate that.
Side cameras
Maybe collision avoidance/lane departure (need to read more of how this works in E450 setup).
Seems like there are a few more things, but that's what comes to mind at the moment.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what I should consider.
If you live in Florida.. Up the A/C from the 13,000but to the 15,000 btu. The 13,000 can't quite keep up in my 2551 once the outside temp is about 85 or so.
-
If you live in Florida.. Up the A/C from the 13,000but to the 15,000 btu. The 13,000 can't quite keep up in my 2551 once the outside temp is about 85 or so.
I live in Arkansas, but will travel to and stay in it in FL or other similar climates (Arkansas is quite often 95-105 with heat index in the 100-110 range in the summer).
So, you think a single 15,000 BTU unit will cool a 2552 even when the temp tops 100? I would like to avoid the extra hole in the room and take away from room I might use for Solar that will come with adding a second unit.
Thanks
-
In our real world experience with a 2552 and a 15,000btu A/C unit (non-heat pump) while camping in 90-100 degree weather, we can generally assume a maximum 20-25 degree differential between indoor and outdoor temps. Heat loads play a huge role though. In our case it is two humans, two small pets, some lighting, tv, shades drawn, usually parked in the sun. Our preference would be two non-heat pump A/C units for the additional cooling capacity as well as the option of using just one (the smaller unit would be quieter) when highest capacity isn't required. With one unit in a hot climate, (as long as possible) we ensure we have the cab A/C cranked up while parking and setting up.
- Mike
-
"So, you think a single 15,000 BTU unit will cool a 2552 even when the temp tops 100? I would like to avoid the extra hole in the room and take away from room I might use for Solar that will come with adding a second unit."
Been there in a 30 ft class A, granted more volume but was also better insulated, thicker walls and much thicker roof. Bottom line, one AC won't keep wife happy in those temps except maybe a no slide 2100.
-
The armless Carefree awnings are very cool and you do not constantly wack your head on the sliding arms used on PC's awnings. The wind/rain sensor is all so nice since there is really nothing that holds the armless awaning donw if a heavy wind came up. i have the armless carefree on my Renegade and it works very well. good luck
-
I definitely need to read up on batteries and chargers. I will admit to liking the idea of AGM so I don't have to check the water and such (call me lazy, but I haven't checked water levels in a batter in a very long time, so it's never on my mind).
Regarding 6V batteries or 12V batteries. Phoenix installs 2-6V batteries these days and that is a very good thing because they are taller. The extra height requires Phoenix to use a taller battery compartment. If you later decide you want to try 2-12V batteries, I believe the battery compartment will easily accommodate them.
Our 10 year old PC battery compartment was designed for 2-12V batteries. Changing over to 6V batteries creates a very tight fit after sacrificing the battery tray, forcing me into AGM batteries to avoid the need to check fluid levels.
On batteries, I was thinking two 12v AGM batteries, so if one bit the dust, I would lose capacity but not my whole 12v system. Am I wrong in thinking this way?
You are not wrong but in the real world the likelihood of that event happening someplace you could not in a day or so get new batteries is pretty slim. One of those things that gets argued on the internet because it is technically correct, but just doesn't matter.
There are varying opinions on batteries:
1) Only buy Costco golf cart batteries, they are cheap, rugged and work well.
2) Only buy pairs of 6volt batteries, they are 'better' than 12volt
3) Only buy pairs of 12volt batteries, if one fails you still have one
4) Only buy AGM batteries because they are 'better', somehow
5) Only buy regular lead acid, all this new AGM stuff is just fluff to make you spend more money
6) Only buy Lithium, lead acid is so last century
I've read them all and more from folks positive they are right. My theory is buy the best battery for the purpose at the best price and don't sweat it.
Being one of the few long time (10 year) PC owners here with a whole house inverter, who almost exclusively camps without hook-ups, and who has gone through two pairs of 12V batteries and has been on his first pair of 6V AGM batteries the past 2 camping seasons, I think I can offer some practical PC-specific experience.
I can't comment on wet acid 6V batteries because I have never owned them. But I can say that it was noticable right from the start that we have more capacity with the pair of 6V AGM batteries than with 12V wet acid. I also can say that the drain and recharge of the deep cycle 6V AGM batteries is more linear and predictable than experienced with both pairs of deep cycle wet acid 12V batteries.
The benefit of a pair of 12V batteries instead of 6Vs is of coarse you can place the premature dead one out of service. But isn't it better to have an arrangement where you eliminate the premature death of a battery? My experience with both sets of 12V batteries, one starts to go bad as soon as the acid boil-overs starts. In my case with both new 12V pairs, that started happening during the first season of use. During or after the second season, one battery is showing serious signs of becoming ill, so I might have done better with just using the remaining healthy battery at that time. I instead continued to stretch the pair two additional seasons for a total of 4 seasons for each 12V pair. Needless to say that season #4 was pretty frustrating.
I am hopeful to get more than 4 "good" seasons from our pair of 6V AGM batteries. So far it is looking very promising. I am really hoping to get 8 good seasons from them. We'll see if it happens.....ask me how they are doing 6 years from now. :)
-
Our 6V Lifeline AGMs are at 10 1/2 years now but there was a noticeable decline in the 10th year.
I have always kept them above the 50% charge level except for once when I was watching the charge % on the battery monitor and suddenly realized that by battery voltage the charge was much lower.
Lesson learned: Don't totally rely on the charge % of a battery monitor. Check occasionally against a battery voltage vs. charge level chart.
-
As I understand the battery thing, there is no difference in performance between a pair of 6 volt and a pair of 12 volt assuming they are constructed the same and contain the same amount of lead and thickness of plates. But that is the issue, most 6 volts are designed for deep cycle applications like golf carts and most, but not all, 12 volts deep cycle are more a compromise. There are (I have been told) 12 volt deep cycle ones that are just as good as the 6 volt, but they are harder to find and cost more. So bottom line, in general a pair of 6 volt batteries is going to be better for this application, and likely cost less than the equivalent 12 volt ones.
I suspect the problem for most RV'ers having early battery failure is the old style, single stage converter still being used. If plugged in for any length of time these will boil your batteries, and then it is all down hill from there. Used in a normal 'camping' scenario where you are using power as fast as you put it back this is not a problem (usually) but if plugged in for a long time the batteries get boiled and then with each consecutive charge cycle it gets easier to boil them and the cycle spirals down into premature failure.
Having a battery monitor and modern 3 stage charger will go a long way to prevent this and extend the life of your batteries. I wish I had thought this through when I ordered as I would have swapped out the converter for a newer one. I will likely do that as soon as I get the rig back home. Cost is maybe $200 and that is far less than a new pair of 6 volt AGMs.
-
I am unable to prove this with either previous pair of 12V batteries, but I had always suspected one battery would take all the abuse while the other battery was protected by the abused one. I always made sure the battery cables were hooked up properly so the load was shared equally.
What we have now with two 6V batteries hooked up in series, the load (and abuse) is forced to be equally shared. It is not possible for one battery to take on the worst of the load while the other battery is not utilized properly.
That is just my theory.
-
In our real world experience with a 2552 and a 15,000btu A/C unit (non-heat pump) while camping in 90-100 degree weather, we can generally assume a maximum 20-25 degree differential between indoor and outdoor temps. Heat loads play a huge role though. In our case it is two humans, two small pets, some lighting, tv, shades drawn, usually parked in the sun. Our preference would be two non-heat pump A/C units for the additional cooling capacity as well as the option of using just one (the smaller unit would be quieter) when highest capacity isn't required. With one unit in a hot climate, (as long as possible) we ensure we have the cab A/C cranked up while parking and setting up.
- Mike
This is what I was thinking. Earl said he thought one 15k would be sufficient, but did say he didn't tend to go places personally when it was that hot.
I'm envisioning problems in Arkansas when we have those brutal July/Augusts if we head up to the lake for the weekend. That said, I'm not sure if the state parks will have power or if they do, 50 amp, so that's another issue. I guess one possibility would be one 15k heat pump, to get the max possible when the generator will only support one unit, but then also a second, possibly even 13k AC only 2nd unit for when I am hooked to 50 amp service.
-
on the keyless item - you can have them order your Chassis from Ford with Ford options. might add a little more front end time for it to arrive. I did the special chassis - but not the keyless. I wanted the Ford Sync package as I wanted the bluetooth for my phone and a USB port - but did not want to order the whole Sirrus/Navigation package from PC. While I was at it for just a few dollars I added in the Daytime running lights and the switch that allows me to turn off the passenger air bag (dangerous to have it armed if I have one of the dogs in a seat belt in that seat).
Did you get the Ford Sync? Does it support Android Auto to use Google Maps on the display?
Does anyone know if the Pioneer model they install is one of the Pioneer's that supports Android Auto? How good are the map updates on the Pioneer? Most car updates suck.
-
Did you get the Ford Sync? Does it support Android Auto to use Google Maps on the display?
Sync does not include any type of maps screen. I will be using a separate GPS so I can also transfer it to the car.