Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ron Dittmer on October 27, 2016, 12:56:07 pm
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Hi Everyone,
I was wondering if anyone here has ever serviced a waste tank valve electric actuator, opened it up, cleaned it, lubricated it, etc.
Our PC is coming up on it's 10th birthday. This past trip I noticed that our black tank electric actuator opens the valve normal, but strains a bit to close it. We have never pooped in the black tank but it does get toilet paper from my wife, so the valve itself should not be difficult to open and close.
My end-of-season PC prep-for-storage in our garage under our bedroom, one of the things I do is bleach both waste tanks to eliminate sewer gas. I add about a quart of bleach to each tank and then fill them to their tippy-top capacity with water, then soak them for about an hour, then drain & refill with fresh water and soak a while, drain & refill again, then the final drain to remove any remaining bleach residue that I hear could damage the valves. I don't believe my process is cause for the sluggish actuator, but I wanted to share my practice, just in-case you wonder about that.
Ron
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Ron have you sprayed the rod with silcone spray? I had to repair my black water tank valve because the gear wheel broke in half. The biggest problem I had was that there is no, l mean NO, slack in the electric wires. I ended up splicing in about 6" of wire in order to have something to work with. You might be able to remove the whole motor and valve in one piece with out having to disconnect the wires. Good luck and let us know how it goes for you.
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On our 2350 I also had to disassemble one of ours due to a gear wheel problem, self inflicted and as Tom said there is no slack, plus your working on your back. However, with an extra pair of hands from my son in law we were able to do it without cutting any wires, but it wasn't fun.
Good luck.
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We had a blinking light that did not go out when the valve was closed. Long story short, accumulation of road debris had gummed up the gears. Several hours of disassembly and cleaning to get valve to close properly and light to go out. Same observation as above on wiring challenges.
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Hmmmm! It doesn't sound like an easy project to be digging into, but something can be done to get it working smoothly again. I'll have to get under there to see with my own eyes, what you all are saying. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to spray the heck out of everything that moves with silicone spray to flush away dirt and to lubricate, and see if it resolves the sluggish closing of our black tank valve.
Thanks Tom, RKS, and bhgareau for sharing your experiences.
Ron
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Dry silicone spray, Tom?
- Mike
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Dry silicone spray, Tom?
- Mike
Hi Mike,
I believe Tom will respond with a "YES" It goes on wet just like WD-40, but dries fairly quickly leaving a film of slippery silicone. This so that it does not attract dirt. At least that is what I plan to apply.
Ron
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I use WD40 heavy dute water proof silicone spray. It does not atract dirt like regular WD40. In the past I would use regular WD40 then wash the them every spring and re-spray. I still wash every spring but I find less dirt now.
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Download the info here https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html
They are easy to service. Msybe hard to get to, but thrn easy once out.
It's always a good idea to replace the valve itself now and then pour a quart of coconut oil in each tank a couple of times a year.
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coconut oil in each tank
Ok, I have to ask. Coconut oil????
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Long way from Colorado to the islands! LOL
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I have a feeling Don posted about the coconut oil because he has used it for many successfu years of rving! Yep, the old line standard treatment for seals in the dump valves and for the seal in the toilet as well. The stuff really livens them up, is totally inert and totally biologically and environmentally safe. A lot of folks swear by it. I must say I tried it and got great results every time. I have never had to replace a seal or valve. And no, don't let your pet monkey in your rig or he will head for the seals. Sorry, couldn't resist it. roflol
Paul
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Learn something every day. Well I suppose at least it smells better than Canola............. :-D
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coconut oil in each tank
Ok, I have to ask. Coconut oil????
Yes, available in most grocery stores, keeps valves lubricated. You'll see many commercial valve lubs contain "coco oil" which is coconut oil. But they cost a lot more $.
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Thanks for that tip, Donc13!
Like Ron's situation, my macerator valves had become stubborn about closing all the way for a couple of months this past fall (light would not stop blinking).
Since you made your suggestion, I have used the coconut oil every 2nd or 3rd dump and the situation is much improved.
Thanks!
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Ron, I use Boeshield T-9 Lub. It a waterproof lubrication I was told to use on my bike chain, does not collect dirt or water. So I use it on all moving parts of my 3100, steps, battery slide value actuators, slide. works great, not cheap at all, 4 oz. can is $20.00, cheaper on line when ordering mult. cans
Jim
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Ron, I use Boeshield T-9 Lub. It a waterproof lubrication I was told to use on my bike chain, does not collect dirt or water. So I use it on all moving parts of my 3100, steps, battery slide value actuators, slide. works great, not cheap at all, 4 oz. can is $20.00, cheaper on line when ordering mult. cans
Jim
Hi Jim,
I never heard of it, but reading up on it I think I will give it a try. It does sound like the right spray lubrication for a waste tank valve. I could use it on much around the house and garage.
Thank you for the suggestion!
Ron Dittmer
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I just bought a 12 oz aerosol can for $18.38 HERE (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291995086130?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) with free shipping. I don't know if it's the best deal out there, but the best I could find in 10 minutes of research.
Ron
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Thanks for the link Ron. I just ordered a can, too.
--Bruce
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I just bought a 12 oz aerosol can for $18.38 HERE (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291995086130?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) with free shipping. I don't know if it's the best deal out there, but the best I could find in 10 minutes of research.
Ron
About the same at Amazon as long as you're an Amazon Prime subscriber https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-LU1063-T-9-Lubricant/dp/B008H5ZO88
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I just signed up for a can also, thanks for the tip. Ron, you have access to your rig, would it be possible to post a picture of the area I should be lube-ing / cleaning ? (valve) New to this
gig and still learning the ropes, as they used to say. Besides, you're retired now, have the time, and love tutorials !
jim
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I just signed up for a can also, thanks for the tip. Ron, you have access to your rig, would it be possible to post a picture of the area I should be lube-ing / cleaning ? (valve) New to this
gig and still learning the ropes, as they used to say. Besides, you're retired now, have the time, and love tutorials !
jim
Ha, ha. I have no clue yet as to what I will be spraying. This is a new experience for me. Hopefully my problem is on the outside the valve assembly with accessible moving parts needing cleaning & lubrication. If the problem is inside with the rubber seals and sliding valve door, I will likely replace the assembly.
I will post my investigation but not anytime soon. It's a cold garage floor having a forced air garage furnace mounted to the ceiling (heat rises). A heated garage floor would have been a much better means to heat our garage. I won't be crawling around under our PC until March/April. Most importantly, I have other more pressing wintertime honey-do house projects to get finished now that the holidays are behind us.
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OK, RON, you make a good point there with the cold floor ! My guess is a lot of us would benefit from your investigation into this project, but don't want you in trouble with the missus.
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When you are married to a little Greek woman, you have to follow orders closely. :)
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I once had to replace the black tank gate valve and let me tell you it was one pain. The entire plumbing system was built from the tank out and the tolerances are much closer than you might think! There are flanges/nipples as I recall on the valve assembly and getting the 3 "round thin gaskets to stay on each side of the valve assembly so that they make up correctly is a real PIA! You just do not have enough play in the piping to spread apart enough to get the new valve in while keeping the gaskets where they need to be, forcing it to much and you will break a joint down the line for sure. After hours of trying different approaches to keep the flimsy round gaskets in place I was successful. At one point I was going to merely cut all of the piping out and start from the valve with all new pipe like how they put it together at the factory. You would think it would all be cut and dry (30 min. job)but I found it difficult. You can service the electric activate mechanism with out getting into the actual slide valve and I would recommend that approach unless of course the valve is bent or something. Good luck
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Thank you ragoodsp for sharing your experience. I assume your experience was with your 3100. Hopefully the waste plumbing on a 2350 is more forgiving.
I will first try to determine if my problem is a weak actuator rather than a gooey valve. I will surely wait til spring when I can pull out the PC and approach everything from all sides more easily.
Ron Dittmer
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Yes Ron, work was done on my beloved 3100 (no longer have).