Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: JOHN on July 15, 2016, 11:47:26 am
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I am picking out the exterior paint for my PC and I have three options:
1. Full Body Paint
2. Lower Body Paint
3. Standard Paint (does not include 1 or 2).
I understand that I will need to maintain the exterior surface. Many from the forum say to keep the surface relatively clean and wax twice a year.
I would appreciate your comments (regardless of your preference of the above 3), if the exterior is properly maintained in each of the above 3 for a like use and storage, would the exterior (I guess appearance of the exterior) age differently?
Thanks - John
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John, You ask a very good question.
If you look at older PCs for sale on the internet, the ones not painted having raw plastic parts like the side mirrors, stove vent, things like that tend to "fade yellow" fiercely from the sun. Then the rig does not show as well.
Also consider that unpainted fiberglass becomes hard to look good over time. No matter how determined you are, the surface will get chalky and then harder and harder to keep looking as white as before, staining quickly from rain streaks too.
If plain old white is your color, I would consider having the entire rig painted white. The painted surface will be much easier to maintain, the white color would reflect the heat of the sun best, and it resists fading most. The question to ask is....how are the dark colored full body paint jobs holding up to the sun? Our 9 year old rig still looks great, but is stored indoors which is not a fair evaluation.
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I don't agree at all.
I'm on my third all natural Gelcoat white RV.
The first one was 11 years old, all the gelcoat still looked brand new. But I did wax with a good gel coat wax twice a year. It was outside uncovered all the time.
I do agree that some parts discolor. The mirrors are painted and did discolor but are easy to repaint. Some of the small fiberglass doors discolor.
My second RV was a PC, all white 6 years old, still looked new.
Present RV is 4 years old, still looks new.
I can post pictures after 11 years and the PC at 6 years to prove what I say.
The piece that is hardest to maintain is the front cap.
The key is maintenance. If it gets away from you you can switch to a cleaner wax to get the shine back.
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John (Keelhauler) - thank you for your response, currently with a white PC (is that the "Standard Paint") and already having two previous (all stored outside and plenty of sun, including most winters in Mexico). I am not surprised yours have stayed in good condition.
I have been corresponding with Earl Robbins with PC and this was his written response:
"The white color on the Ford Hood is paint from Ford. So it will weather just like your car or truck.
The white on the rest of the coach is Gelcoat fiberglass. We use a better quality of gelcoat than most RVs.
However the rear and front cap is different than the sidewalls. They will fade over time and not at the same rate.
If you get the full body paint then it is all paint and 2 coats of clear and hand sanded and buffed.
This paint is like your car or truck and should with reasonable care last for the life of the coach."
I will see if I can get Earl to provide more on the "Standard Paint".
Thanks John and Ron with your responses,
John
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I agree with Earl, but the Ford paint is as good as any paint, easy to maintain.
The front cap is really the only piece that requires extra care but it does not seem like it is worth the extra cost of painting the entire RV just to make the cap look perfect.
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Full body paint cost 6% of the 2350 cost without options. Also think about tradein or resale value. Try Kelly blue book or nada and see the difference on a 5 year old motorhome. Subtract that number from the cost of full body. Now think about which looks best to you. Even if you like a single color, like white, you should ask Earl about the cost of just one color.
I have had motorhomes both ways and I think the full body is easier to keep clean looking. When I was a young man I washed and waxed the motorhome every month. Boy did it ever shine. Now I use gel coat wash and wax. I can be really lazy some times. Any way this hobby is about having fun not having to work. I can stay home and work.
What you want is what counts. ;)
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I agree with Earl, but the Ford paint is as good as any paint, easy to maintain.
The front cap is really the only piece that requires extra care but it does not seem like it is worth the extra cost of painting the entire RV just to make the cap look perfect.
Hi John,
Seems that if there might be a problem, then it would be the front cap. I meant to ask you do you have the Diamond Shield anywhere?
I will ask Earl if I can just give the front cap special (paint treatment). Then see if I can just go with the "Phoenix Cruiser" graphic on the four sides.
Thanks for your comments,
John
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All 3 of my PCz had lower or no paint and all did OK.
Caution: make sure you don't get the Phoenix Cruiser decals on the cap. They will start to peel and when you remove them there will be a 'ghost' of the decal left, which looks terrible.
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My earlier reply about long term reliability issues on a gel coat fiberglass rig is based on THIS (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157621472936441) motor home we owned for 24 years. 19 of the 24 years, the rig was stored indoors. The pictures were taken in year 24 when selling the rig. Pictures don't reveal the condition of the fiberglass, nor how quickly it would streak. My experience is not with a PC. Apparently all gelcoat fiberglass rigs are NOT the same.
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Go with full body paint.
When I wash my unit it is like washing a new car. It looks so good. I had enough gelcoat with the boats we have owned.
Full body paint makes the unit look up to date with other units.
Syd
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I’m now in the group of PC owners that would recommend full-body paint because of the following brief history with ours.
Our 3-yesr old 2552 has lower body paint. I’m almost obsessive in keeping it clean and protected from UV as it is always parked outside (summer it’s usually in the generally cool, foggy Monterey bay climate, winter it’s in sunny Palm Desert, CA)
My experience is that the painted surface needs much less attention to keep it looking like new. The painted surface usually just needs a light wipe-down, while the non-painted surfaces needs more effort to remove accumulated dirt. The gel coat seems to attract more grime.
The whole unit gets a complete wash and wax three or four times a year.
We recently needed to temporarily store the coach in a lot surrounded by evergreen trees and next to a metal fabrication shop for three weeks. As I cleaned the coach I was horrified to see many small stains (most about 1/8" to 1/4" size) all over the unpainted gel coat on the driver’s side that I’ve not been able to remove. No stains can be seen in the adjacent painted surface.
Rather than hijack this tread toward stain removal questions I plan to start a new thread on that subject.
--Bruce
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OK, a new guy here. Full body paint, lower body paint? What's this? Is it the base color and then all the swirls and or swashes are added?
What if I don't want the swirls nor swashes, or at least most of them?
We are thinking about a phoenix cruiser and plan to visit their facility this fall and negotiate, and would like to have some knowledge of what I would be talking about.
A nice color or even white with a simple swash and no name on the nose cap would be ideal. Are these points negotiable or even an option?
Thanks
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That is the great thing about Phoenix Cruiser. You can negotiate with them on anything. They will do their best to please you. If they can't do it they will tell you.
We met a PC owner recently and they wanted full body paint without any swirls or swashes and that's what they got. It also did not have any name on the cap. So don't be afraid to ask.
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I'll try to answer the full body vs lower body paint question. Without any paint the entire exterior of the coach is the white gel coat that you can see in the current photos shown in the 2100 inventory section of the main Phoenix Cruiser page--the one that shows the unit at various stages of production where no paint or decals have been applied.
With half body paint, the very lowest parts of the exterior are painted with normal auto body paint and then decals are added for the swirls. You can see this in many of the other sections of the PC site, such as in colors.
With full body paint, the entire exterior of the coach has auto body paint applied so you see none of the white gel coat.
--Bruce
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The fewer 'decals' the more you'll be pleased. They'll eventually peel or crack and look like hell.
As for me, if Phoenix wants to put their ID on the rear to advertise, I'd have a decision to make.
If I were to buy another new PC, I'd have none, unless it was all clear-coated.
Full body paint is nice, though.
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This clearly falls into a personal choice, with the factor of how well one maintains their motorhome.
If you go with Standard Paint, then that is no extra paint by PC, the cab is Ford paint white and I believe everyone agrees that with reasonable care will be last the life of the MH. The sides are white and a gel coat covering that again with reasonable care will last very well. The issue with Standard Paint is the front cap and the rear cap that again are white and have a gel coat but not the same as the sides and weathers the most and will need the most care. PC does not require any of the decals and my PC is in production and will have the Standard Paint with no decals.
The Lower Body Paint has lower paint as you have all seen on the sides and the back, and that paint only will then get a clear gel coat and buffed and it will weather very well with reasonable care, but the front cap and the upper portion of the rear cap has not received any additional treatment and will need just as if you had the Standard Paint on those areas (again that's no paint on those areas). PC does not require any of the decals with the Lower Body Paint, I did not ask if they would install less than all.
Keelhauler suggest (see below and the following green quote) "wax with a good gel coat wax twice a year. It (his PC is white and looks great) was outside uncovered all the time.
I do agree that some parts discolor. The mirrors are painted and did discolor but are easy to repaint. Some of the small fiberglass doors discolor."
I did think about the Full Body Paint and just paint it white and again go without the decals, that may be an option down the line.
I believe all agree that PC will work with you on the paint however you may want to go. Seeing the options at the factory should be the most help for your decision.
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My (pre-owned) 2551 had no paint but did have the decals on the rear and front cap. I liked it quite well until the decals on the front cap cracked and peeled. Also, not having space for a lounge chair was a PITA.
If I were to buy/order new, I'd go with a 2552, no paint, no roof rack, no decals, no outside shower and no roof antenna.
However, I would go with jacks (as we did on our 2011 2552).
However, if it were just me, I'd go with a new 2350 with jacks (which is a good choice for a lazy old man).
Regardless, PC makes a really good quality product and the after sale support cannot be exceeded (and I've had top line A class and others). I cannot speak better for the quality and folks at Phoenix Cruiser.
I've been away from motorhomes for a few years and I don't say this lightly.
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I have owned two Born Free rv's in the past which were white gel coat with decals. I now have tennis elbow. :'( My 2016 2351 has full body paint (sand color). I would be hard pressed to go back to gel coat and decals. Yes, the paint was expensive but IMHO it was worth it. BUT to each his own. A disclaimer: Both Born Free units sat outside but the PC sleeps in a barn. 2o2
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Here is the product I use to keep it looking brand new. I wax it twice a year but it is outside 100% of time with no cover. 1 liter lasts me 3 years.
3M 09062 Scotchgard Marine Liquid Wax, 1-Liter
Cost Amazon 1 liter $26.42 + shipping. Link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016H2MFW/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_2)
Cost jet.com 1 liter $22.50 with free shipping. Link (https://jet.com/product/detail/15877295e8d5460b815c9075d10bee26?jcmp=pla:ggl:cwin_health_beauty_a3:personal_care_a3_other:na:PLA_348434340_24222162900_pla-161708882460:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=cwin_health_beauty_a3&ds_cid=&ds_ag=personal_care_a3_other&product_id=15877295e8d5460b815c9075d10bee26&product_partition_id=161708882460&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxLC9BRDb1dP8o7Op68IBEiQAwWggQPbRKtQlQmG_6xt5e8JefF_2m8sRAfHlRrL8-Nl3P7MaAnJi8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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What excellent answers. So when I go to PC and ask to not have the decals on the nose cap and limited ones on the side, he won't sound like he is doing me a personal favor and "bending" the rules. This is an option.
Thanks
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Yep!
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Yep!
The Full Body Paint remains the easiest to maintain; and the brochure indicates that there are 12 optional selections, so much to consider.
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If I really wanted an all-white PC and had some extra money to work with, I would ask the factory to paint the house portion the same white as the van portion, leaving the van itself to retain it's original Ford or Sprinter factory paint job. As others indicated, a fully painted PC, even plain white is easier to maintain and will look better for a longer period of time than raw white. But it is very hard to justify painting a PC all white when it comes raw white to begin with. At that point, you might as well pick one of the full body paint options.
FWIW, we love our full body paint job.....no regrets over that choice we made back in the day.(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3495/3743987425_a84c364696_z.jpg)
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Keeping the logo on the front and back will save you some questions. You’ll find lots of folks asking about your PC. The logo will answer the first question. :)
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Greetings, just a note for your paint discussion. We ordered our new rig with No Diamond Shield. Past experience it has a 4 year life span and may begin to peel, crack or even discolor. Have seen all. The 3M product is rated the best of these films and it is costliest. We ended up removing from our last RV which was class A and repainting the entire front end. On prior Class A it began to lift at the edges in places. All parked outside and we are in Florida so sun usually shines on us. We are hoping that the clear coat will maintain the look on new 2910T and We will be pleased. This is a test, I would say.Patricia
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We agree with you 100%! We will never have DiamondShield on the front of the coach again.
We are in Florida, as well, and our rig is stored outside.
Judi
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I recently noticed dirt/discoloration under the very top edge of the Diamond Shield on the nose of the truck. I figure it is only a matter of time before we have to work to get it off. Ours is outside full time and has been in most climates during our travels so it has had evil heat, humid air, dry air and sheets of ice on it.