Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: dickreid1 on June 11, 2015, 05:48:55 pm
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In the last few campsites one of the levelers refused to retract. To get it up I had to drive forward enough so it could swing up. (Yes, the levelers are designed for that). The shiney piston part simply would not retract all the way in spite of pushing or banging on the base. If there was clearance it would extend properly for leveling but not fully retract when done.
A search came up with the suggestion to fully extend the jack, spray WD40 generously inside the metal sleeve at the top of the piston and ,using a twig or stick, swab a paper towel around inside the metal sleeve. I did that repeatedly until the black gunk up in there was gone. That was followed by spraying WD40 all over the piston and wiping it clean of any residue.
The jack retracted normally after this treatment and has been behaving properly since.
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Thanks for passing along that tip! My levelers also can be glitchy about retracting sometimes, although not as bad as what you described. I usually just re-extend them and then retract again to get them to behave right the 2nd or 3rd time. I'll go ahead and WD-40 them, though, as you suggest, and hopefully avoid worse problems. Thanks!
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I've had the same problem for a few months now (front right jack not extending on the first couple tries). Finally decided to try Dick's method and it works wonderfully. No more frustration and much more playtime.
- Mike
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We have always had some trouble extending each of the two front levelers, so I'd like to apply the WD40 as is being discussed here. But I'm having trouble understanding the procedure. Do you fully extend the levelers and then crawl under the rig to get to the metal sleeves? Do the front ones first and then the back ones?
--Bruce
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I use Boeshield T-9 lube on mine, it last a lot longer and won't wash off with water. You can read about it at: http://boeshield.com/rv-trailer/
Jim
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Bruce,
The sequence of what levelers are raised is of no consequence. Raising a leveler is for best access to clean the seal and piston.
However, understand that the emergency brakes are on the rear wheels. If you fully extend both rear levelers it would be advisable to securely block the front wheels so the coach cannot roll forward or backward. Ditto if you need to raise the rear for leveling. In this case, driving your duals up on blocks helps keep more weight on the tires .
Dick
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Bruce, I do right side first with Chuck on left front wheels and then reverse to do the other side
Jim
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I came upon this posting quite late - been away. We had a similar problem on a Class A we had one time. The Service Manager at an RV Dealership in Colorado told us to use a Silicone Spray on the shaft which extends. I mentioned I only had WD 40 at the time and the manager stressed (in his opinion) the superiority of Silicone Spray over WD 40. Anyone know anything about the difference in the chemical makeup of these two products which might explain the manager's strong opinion?
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Well, I just looked this up on the HWH website. They only recommend cleaning the jack rod with soap and water or WD40, or lubing with WD40 depending on the situation. They actually state that if silicone has been used then one should clean off the silicone with WD40. It appears their stance is that the jack rod/cylinder itself should be clean but not necessarily lubed. They do state there are other points which should be lubed with WD40.
Here is the FAQ link: http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20673aafaq.html
Here is the document link: http://www.hwh.com/ml47149.pdf
- Mike
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Mike
Good info directly from HWH
Barry
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Thank you Mike, very good information.
2o2 2o2 2o2
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Thanks for clarifying that point. Apparently, not all Service Managers are completely in-the-know or without personal bias.