Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: BandD on April 14, 2013, 12:33:31 pm
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Our PC sits outside in the sun all the time. We wash it thoroughly every
few months, but have no service available to wax it (and I'm reluctant to
spend too much time on a ladder).
I'm now noticing that the bulb over the cab is getting that dusty white
chalky look to it. Looks like a fiberglass boat left too long unmaintained.
What I'd do with the boat would be to buff it out and wax it.
I thought that clear coat would prevent this chalking effect...
What's the best care for the PC's skin?
Bill & Diane
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I use "3M Marine Scotchgard Liquid Wax Liter MMM-09062 " cost about $21. One coat Lasts for a year. I think you could do the whole RV 3-4 times with a liter.
Get some kid, it's easy to apply & wipe off. Down let it get chalky or you will need a cleaner first.
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BandD, Your profile says white over blue. That means your aero-cap is not painted, just raw get-coat fiberglass. My first motor home was 100% gel-coat fiberglass. Once the chaulkiness starts, it is hard to keep under control. I tried so many different products, the best lasting a year or so. On RV.net, there was some discussion about this. There was general agreement that one particular product was a clear winner. I did a quick search but could not find that thread.
When it came time to replace the old motor home, I thought I'd spend the money for full body paint to rid myself of that cosmetic maintenance. So far so good. But our PC is garaged kept......like our old rig was. The full body paint of the PC does make for easier waxing and such.
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Paint.
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Hey, I found that RV.net thread. The product is sold by Lowes for floors of all things. It is called Red Max Pro. It is sold by the gallon. Some RV people swear by it. I would first try it in an easy-to-reach area to test how it goes on and the look after dries. If it's a disaster, just get some car polish and take it off.
That thread references this thread which has some good pictures.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html)
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when I first bought the beast home and cleaned it up I used another brand of floor polish it was ok,,,,can not seem to find the Pro Max anywhere local,,tried a bunch of sites, ebay, amazon also,,hmmmmmm this sounds like a good product,,, I also keep my beast indoors,,, but want to add some more protection to the fiberglass areas may have to go with the marine polish... some guy up in Washington on craigslist had a bunch of it maybe I ought to contact him see if he would ship it to Texas
David
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when I first bought the beast home and cleaned it up I used another brand of floor polish it was ok,,,,can not seem to find the Pro Max anywhere local,,tried a bunch of sites, ebay, amazon also,,hmmmmmm this sounds like a good product,,, I also keep my beast indoors,,, but want to add some more protection to the fiberglass areas may have to go with the marine polish... some guy up in Washington on craigslist had a bunch of it maybe I ought to contact him see if he would ship it to Texas
David
An RV friend of mine is a member of a detailing group and really into McGuires products. He recommend the McGuires flagship cleaner/wax. It's available in a large 32 oz. bottle on Amazon. Supposed to really get the oxidation off and leave a nice sheen. I think it's marine focused too.
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We have used Mequiers Flagship Premium wax on all of our PCs. It was reccomended by Beau at Diamondshield. It really gives a good shine. We also use 303 Protectorant over the Diamondshield,also reccomended.
George
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Shoot,, tks for the info... I just spent 10 minutes explaining gel/clear coat, primer, paint, wax, oxidation, fiberglass, metal and the thing ate my post.. I have a tech degree in auto painting and tried to explain all this in layman's term.. too tired to do it again
david sparks
2008 PC 2350
houston
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Shoot,, tks for the info... I just spent 10 minutes explaining gel/clear coat, primer, paint, wax, oxidation, fiberglass, metal and the thing ate my post.. I have a tech degree in auto painting and tried to explain all this in layman's term.. too tired to do it again
david sparks
2008 PC 2350
houston
Awwww I hate when that happens. Come back and do it when you're not so tired. I'm all ears! :lol
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Barb
you asked for it, hehe I was smart this time wrote it on word document so I can redo it later if needed.
A few basics,,,, our RV’s have two different coverings,, clear coat covers the ford van metal,, gel coat covers the fiberglass parts. When I went to tech school for painting cars ( I use to paint antique cars) instructor showed us metal, glass, plastic under a microscope,,, even though it looks and feels smooth its not,, there are pits in the surface,,they are of course microscopic but are there so when I use the word holes remember microscopic.
What usually takes place, bare metal a coat of primer is placed on it fills in the holes. Then painted fills in more holes,, then one or two coats of clear coats fills in the holes even more. On some paint jobs 4 coats of clear coat is put over the paint then actually sanded,, you use sandpaper 2000 to 4000 grit,,like using a newspaper to sand haha… now factory cars RV the clear one coat is put on then sent out still looks good. Fiberglass is normally already colored white and a coat of gel coat put on it. If your RV has total paint,,, primer, paint , then gel coat.
As stated earlier the primer paint gel/clear coat fill in the holes,, Why do we wax on wax off hehe,,, fill in more holes. Even though water will fun off your newly waxed RV what happens in few months no water run off WHY ?? those holes are back
Back to the holes, metal (fiberglass),, the reason we put primer, gel/clear coat, paint etc on them is to protect them from oxidation chemical change rust (reaction)etc.. the more protection the less reaction that takes place. You drive down the road sand small rock hits the paint,, causes bigger holes,, you get grime from the road what’s in that grime oil, gas rubber tread,,even worse remember everything we put on the RV primer, paint gel/clear coat are petroleum based,, so all this stuff gets in to holes and we get more reaction.. Sun and UV even worse,, breaks down the wax, gel/clear coat through chemical reaction ,, bugs,, what’s inside a bug, chemicals. Splat some of those chemicals leak into the holes more reaction. Not only that what’s in the air (pollution) more junk to react to your protection.
Now these reactions do take time, so that is why it important to protect your RV,, first protection is wax,, then a cover, then covered storage,,, If my RV was stored outside I would be waxing it 2/3 times a year minimum. I have two cars outside I wax them twice a year,, however I wash them all the time, whenever we get bugs on them wash off asap. I have a van, coverd in my garage, I only have to wax it about every two years,, I have a 62 Willys covered, in the garage have not waxed in 5 years,, I only drive it on the week-ends, never in the rain still looks like it came off the showroom floor
RV when I travel I take a bucket spray bottle and wash off the bugs every day if possible, rules of the rv park,,, I wax once a year,, soon as I get home wash and clean put back in covered storage,,
Now next time you go to an RV park, start looking at the bodies of the RV, you can tell who is taking care of their units. There are a couple of Rv outside where I store mind. If you run your hand on the side of them you get that chalky stuff on your hand (oxidation) especially the fiberglass..
Anyway sorry so long, this is a very complex issue and I wanted to try and explain in layman’s term so we could all understand it, and why it is so important to protect your RV.
alright that worked
David Sparks
2008 PC 2350
Houston
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David,
Thanks for the information, it is very helpful. I don't know when PC started putting the Diamondshield film on the front of the Ford van but my 2010 has it. Does wax help or hurt the Diamonshield film? I started using the Areospace 303 recommended by Diamondshield on the entire RV, mainly because I read it was good for the decals. I put the 303 on everything, the Diamondshield, Ford van paint, fiberglass gel coat, fiberglass paint and decals. From what I have read, it helps preserve by UV blocking, and helps the bugs come off the front very easily. My 3 year old RV is garaged and the exterior looks like new, don't know if the 303 has helped or if being garaged is the reason. I do notice when I wash it the water beads up as if it was waxed.
Do you have any comments on using the Areospace 303 instead of wax?
Thanks, Bob
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A "Helpful" for Mr. Sparks. Good explanation David.
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thank you ron
bob- the main thing keep those holes filled hahah... no your doing exactly what I do...you said your beast looks great, you answered your own question.. do you know what detailing clay is,,, get some, after you have cleaned your vehicle you use some detail liquid and wipe down the vehicle using the clay, you would be surprised at what comes up.. I always do this prior to waxing,,,
Waxes are not made equal,, however something is better than nothing.. I mainly use mequiars I use both the liquid and paste.. to keep this simple,,,lets say you buy some simple wax,,, it is mainly just wax and wears out quickly,, now you buy complex wax it is wax with additives that makes it last longer,,, these are car the car waxes... now you buy some Marine wax,, wax+addititves+protectors it has added stuff in it since the boat is sitting water and salt water that's why it cost more it also is made for gel coat since 90% of boats are made with fiberglass like our RV's.
One thought no matter what you do eventually the gel/clear coat will breakdown, I know everyone has those small chips on their hood,, touch up paint helps,, since most of up keep our RV covered I hope it should never be a problem
bottom line you get what you pay If diamond shield recommend something I see no problem,, just keep doing what you doing... BTW, I am going to order the Mequiars marine wax for my fiberglass,, I will keep using their car wax for the van
David Sparks
2008 PC 2350
Houston
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Thanks again David, I will look for detailing clay and liquid and give it a try.
Bob
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Roundy round dirt sprint cars us a liquid dissolved in water, spray on, and left to dry, sure makes getting the mud off easier after and between races. I have used it on the front of a motorhome during high bug season (those little black ones) and wiping the bugs off with minimum water is a nice touch. Spray bottle before leaving the next day and you are set again. I used Mudd-Off IIRC.
http://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/?ic=1896
The link is for info only. I don't know tlhem.
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I've finally had time apply UV protection on our new 2350 as recommended by Diamond Shield. Is it important to put some type of UV protection on the roof, too? The roof seems to be made of material different from that on the rest of the body. I don't think it would be a good idea to apply wax up there.
--Bruce
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We tried the flagship McGuires and in the most oxidized place on the fiberglass over the windshield, it's not doing that much. Somebody said the buffer which has a micro fiber cloth on it, isn't enough. Three tries isn't getting all the oxidation off. Now What?
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Our first rig (Toyota/Mirage) was 100% gel-coat fiberglass. Over the 24 years we owned since new, I was not able to control the chauk-like weathering. From a serious polishing compound and orbital buffing, to a fast cover-over with magic goop from a bottle, nothing worked to my satisfaction. That was one reason why we went with a full body paint job with our PC.
I know it's not the answer you were looking for. Sorry about that.
About that Red Max Pro floor polish I mentioned higher in this thread. Has anyone here tried it on their PC? I don't know how well it holds up to the elements. Here are pictures of it in-use. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html)
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Cautionary tale here: I believe that Lowes no longer sells Red Max, some is available on eBay, FWIW. Don't remember where I read that.
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From the RV.net Blog
http://blog.rv.net/2013/07/protect-guns-and-rvs-with-corrosionx/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+RvnetBlog+%28RV.net+Blog+Daily+Updates+Feed%29
Bill G
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I am doing what we did on our white sailboat hull, no wax as it tend to lead to a chalk finish faster, rather we used Astroshield. Washed and applied once a year. The company went out business when parents died and children fought over value of business. This happened about 6 years ago, until then it was in every auto and marine store here in Florida.
The patent was bought by a chemist in Ocala who now sell it via the Internet. It is same stuff as before. Our hull was reprinted 14 years ago and when we sold it, it still had a shine no chalk.
Google Astroshield, you see the original yellow can but it now comes in a nondescript bottle. The children wouldn't sell the right to use the old can for a reasonable price.,
Greg Matthews
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Here is the product I purchased from Meguiars and applied last week to my 2350.
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4671
My neighbor owns a small Boston Whaler fleet and told me that he uses a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser along with Dawn dish detergent in warm water to remove the oxidation. It worked.
After removing the oxidation I applied this Meguiar's 3 step system with DeOxidizer, polish and wax. I am happy with the results. Thank Goodness it's a small RV it took 4 days to git er dun. :-D
Bill G